Dennis Reed - Page 4 of 20

Self Cleaning-Germ Free-Low Maintenance Humidifiers. Really?

Humidifiers are notorious for being high maintenance machines because of the nature of their design and that they require a basin of water to work.

3 different types of Humidifiers that qualify as “self cleaning”:

1. UV sterilization
2. Germ resistant plastic
3. Germ and Bacteria Resistant Water Additives
4. Vaporizer

Why does that make Humidifiers high maintenance?

Because of the easy formation and growth of mold that happens inside of a humidifier when it is not maintained properly.

And the fact that the mold growth inside of the machine becomes part of the humidity being expelled into the room when the unit is in operation.

Breathing mold spores can trigger asthma and exasperate allergies. That’s not good.

Wouldn’t it be great if there was such a thing as a “self cleaning humidifier”?

Technically a vaporizer is a type of Humidifier that is considered a self cleaning humidifier because is boils water as a means of creating steam. The boiling process kills any mold or bacteria in the operation.

But vaporizers are not for everyone and most people considered them to unsafe to keep in the babies room or children regardless.

So where does that leave the idea of a self cleaning humidifier?

There is not yet such a thing as a completely self cleaning humidifier that requires no maintenance.

But there are multiple ways that the issue the mold growth in humidifiers is being addressed, and different technologies that are being invented and used to make humidifiers safer.

1. Antimicrobial plastic

One of the most exciting innovations in humidifiers is the use of germ and bacteria resistant materials in the construction of the humidifier.

Antimicrobial plastic contains biocide polymers that combat the production of mold and mildew on the surface of the plastic. It has a ton of applications and seems to be perfectly suited for humidifiers.

Not only can humidifiers be completely built out of antimicrobial plastic, the filter inside of the humidifier can also be coated with the same type of product to keep the filter from becoming a moldy mess too.

Which, as you probably have already realized, is an amazing leap for appliances like humidifiers and dehumidifiers, as well as air conditioners and water-based air purifiers.

Since the one thing all of these appliances have in common is that they are subject to mold and bacteria growth,

If the materials that the humidifier is constructed of are resistant to mold growth, and the filters within them are also resistant to mold, then the search for a self cleaning humidifier is nearly half over.

Nearly half?

Yes, nearly half. The reason is, that humidifiers not only grow mold on the plastic and construction itself, they also have a tendency to get mold on the surface of the water inside of the basin when it is not changed often.

And keep in mind, the whole point of the humidifier is to use the water in the basin to emit into the air to increase the humidity in a room.

If the water in the humidifier basin has mold and mildew when the machine is running, then the humidity droplets in your air will also be full of mold spores and bacteria.

Keeping mold and mildew from growing on the surface of the humidifier, regardless of it being inside or out, is a mind-blowing advancement in humidifier innovations, but it is yet only half the battle.

Keeping mold and germs from growing in stagnant water is the other side of the equation that would make a humidifier actually “self cleaning”.

2. Ultraviolet sterilization

Fortunately there is already people who are making products to remedy the situation of mold growing on the surface of the water inside of a humidifier.

UV lamps are used in multiple industries to help reduce the spread of mold, bacteria, and viruses.

You have probably seen aquariums with a blue light inside of them. The blue light is a ultraviolet lamp that is targeted on the inside of the aquarium to help reduce the amount of algae and mildew that tends to take over an aquarium pretty fast.

Another place might have seen this same procedure in action is in a barber shop. Barber shops oftentimes have a cylinder that they put their Combs and scissors in that employees a UV lamp to clean and disinfect their utensils while they are not in use.

This is exactly the same way that ultraviolet light can be used in a humidifier.

Positioning a ultraviolet light inside of a humidifier to continuously Target the water inside of the basin is a proven method of reducing the amount of contaminants that may be emitted into your airstream in the humidifying process.

Combining ultraviolet light in a humidifier that is constructed out of antimicrobial plastic seems to cover all the bases in the search for a self cleaning humidifier.

3. Germ and Bacteria Resistant Water Additives

Another technology that is used to combat the production of mold in the water of a humidifier is anti mold and germ pods that you purchase to place inside of the basin with the water.

This is more of a back road country recipe that has become more mainstream.

The ideal is to put an additive in the water that keeps mold from taking hold.
Colloidal silver is a natural antibiotic that also has antimicrobial properties.

Although you can purchase colloidal silver and just add it to the water in your humidifier, you can also purchase pods and sticks that contains silver in them that will do the same thing as adding colloidal silver.

“There is a problem with these additives though, they are only useful in ultrasonic humidifiers.”

Another do-it-yourself home recipe for keeping the water in your humidifier fresher longer is to add a little bit of vinegar to the water in your humidifier.

Vinegar is actually one of the best all natural mold cleaners there is. Even edging out bleach because of its ability to get down under the surface better.

Some people even advocate breathing vinegar steam to get rid of chest and head congestion. But if that is something you want to try, you should do your own research and probably stick with apple cider vinegar which is loaded with enzymes and vitamins.

Recap

There is no humidifier that it is 100% self cleaning. But there are newer technologies available that make it nearly a reality.

Technologies like antimicrobial plastic that resists mold growth can be used in the construction of the humidifier making the materials the humidifier is made out of already mold resisting.

The filters inside of humidifiers can be coded with the same type of polymers that are contained in the antimicrobial plastic, which we’ll also help the filter for becoming a mold farm.

As for the water in the basin, there is a couple of technologies that can help keep the water fresher, longer.

One one is the use of ultraviolet light targeting the surface of the water so that mold and algae cannot take root.

Another is to add anti mold pods that contains silver. Silver is a natural antimicrobial that can help the water in the basin of your ultrasonic humidifier stay safer.

After all the point is to add clean humidity to your air so that you can breathe better.
Adding humidity that is laced with mold and germs is a quick way to trigger allergies and asthma.

9 Self Cleaning Humidifiers and or Options

Aqua stick
Safety First A clean humidifier
Pure guardian h5450bca
Dyson am-10
Pure Enrichment Mistaire Eva
Air innovations
Winix humidifier
Crane
Boneco

Many of the reviews of so-called germ-free humidifiers are negative because people seem to have the expectation that there is no cleaning involved whatsoever. Unfortunately that’s just not the case.

For instance, The main issue with using UV in a humidifier is that the UV light has to be targeted directly on the bacteria or mold to be effective at destroying the germs.

So even though incorporating a UV lamp inside of a humidifier will definitely help cut down on mold and bacteria,

You shouldn’t expect every square inch of the humidifier to be in the direct target of the UV.

Some, like the Dyson a.m. do a much better job then others,

But the idea that you do not have to clean the humidifier ever because it has a UV lamp is not realistic.

The same thing goes for humidifiers that have the antimicrobial silver induced plastic. Do they help reduce germs in the water tank of a humidifier? Yes, no doubt.

But does that mean that there is no cleaning to be done? Not at all. There has yet to be invented an additive but you can place it in a humidifier that will completely kill 100% of all bacteria and mold.

Self-cleaning humidifiers are better called low maintenance humidifiers because they incorporate methods to help curb bacterial growth and reduce the amount of cleaning.

Some are better than others.

But there is no such thing as a humidifier that is completely germ-free.

Click here for AquaStick

Aquastick

Aqua stick is an additive that you place inside of your humidifier similar in looks to a cleaning stick that you place in the back of your toilet.

They are an inexpensive way to help keep mold and bacteria from growing inside of your humidifier. They can be used for up to two to three months without having to be replaced.

They also have a reputation of being able to use tap water. Which carries with it a huge advantage.

Many of the humidifiers that we review that are designed to be antimicrobial for less cleaning use silver induced materials in their construction.

Aqua stick is a way of using silver in your humidifier tank without having to pay for a humidifier that is made from antimicrobial silver induced plastic.

This product is made by guardian technologies who also build antimicrobial humidifiers.

Remarks:

One of the easiest ways to keep bacteria and germs from growing in your humidifier. And they work with any humidifier regardless of the brand.

Buy Safety 1st Stay Clean Here

Safety 1st Stay Clean humidifier

The entire marketing of this humidifier is based on the fact that it is supposed to be self cleaning. But to be fair, the literature says there is “less cleaning”.

Unfortunately the reviews on Amazon are pretty heavily slanted to the opposite. Lots of complaints of pink residue in the bottom of the humidifier.

The fact that the Blue lamp in this humidifier is an LED light and not an ultraviolet light is probably the reason people are not seeing the results they expected.

As a basic humidifier it does not require a filter which is a plus but it does not have any of the regular features like humidistat, or aromatherapy tray.

Dimensions 10.75 * 8.9 * 8.9 in
Weight 3 lb
Square footage: unlisted
Tank size: unlisted

Features:

Antimicrobial LED light

Buy Pure Guardian Here

Pure Guardian H5450BCA

This humidifier has different methods to help to keep bacteria and mold from growing inside of a humidifier.

The first is a non ozone UV-C light. The second is that it has silver embedded into the housing.
The third is the fact that it works as a warm mist humidifier as well. Which means that the water in the humidifier must be risen to a boiling temperature which will destroy bacteria.

Ultraviolet light is a proven method of destroying germs and bacteria when it is targeted directly upon them.

Silver is an all natural antibiotic that has a purifying effect on water.

This humidifier doesn’t make any claims suggesting that it is 100% germ-free or self-cleaning, only that it has incorporated a couple of methods that work to help reduce germs and cleaning.

And this pure guardian humidifier has a lot of features that make it an excellent humidifier regardless.

Features:

Works as a warm mist or a cool mist humidifier
UBC
100 hour runtime
380 square feet coverage
Aromatherapy tray

Remarks

The real deal. Pure Guardian not only employs the UV lamp to target bacteria and germs inside of the tank, the tank itself is embedded with silver, an all natural antibiotic known to reduce bacteria.

Purchase Dyson AM-10 Here

Dyson am-10 humidifier

This is a humidifier and fan all-in-one.

Dyson am-10 uses a UV lamp that exposes every drop of water to the ultraviolet light.

And claims to kill 99.99% of bacteria inside of a tank.

It is an intelligent appliance that measures the temperature and moisture of the air to control to keep the ideal climate continuously in your room.

It is a 3 l tank and works up to 12 hours before having to have a refill.

Manufacturer: Dyson
Dimensions: 8.7 by 9.4 by 22.8 in
Weight: 7.5 lb
Tank size: 3 l
Square footage: not listed
Type: ultrasonic

Features:

UVC lamp
Fan
Humidistat Auto shut-off

Remarks:

This is a Dyson product so the price is significantly higher than most.

They do have a reputation of being very effective and the fact that it is a powerful fan as well as a germ-free humidifier makes it very interesting.

This air purifier doesn’t feature a way to diffuse essential oils.

The reviews are a mixed bag. Some people love this humidifier, other people hate it.

Click here for Pure Enrichment Mistaire Eva

Pure Enrichment Mistaire Eva

This is a low maintenance humidifier that incorporates an antimicrobial filter.

It doesn’t make any huge claims of killing 99% of bacteria or even reducing it.

Only that it helps fight allergies by trapping and killing airborne allergens in the filter.

It does claim to dramatically reduce the amount of white dust you typically find around ultrasonic humidifiers though.

The humidifier uses a technology called whirlwind fan that captures cools and humidifies the air up to 500 square feet.

It offers for fan speeds and an auto off timer. It also offers turbo speed.

It also serves as a night light that can be changed to 7 different colors.

One feature missing is the aromatherapy option.

Item model number: PHHUMEVA

Dimensions: 9.5 by 9.5 x 13.5 in
Weight: 5.49 lb
Square footage: 500 square feet
Tank size: 2.8 l
Warranty: 5 years

Features:

500 square feet
Antimicrobial filter
25 hour runtime
Multiple settings including turbo mode
7 color night lights

Remarks:
It has an amazing new technology that helps it cover large areas. But they don’t tell say what it is or how it works. A little fishy.

Purchase Air Innovations on Amazon

Air innovations

Air innovations feature one of the most stylish humidifiers available.
But style is not the only thing it features.

This humidifier can run 96 hours and humidify a room up to 600 square feet without refilling.

It also includes a remote and a digital display hygrometer / humidistat.

The reason it is featured as a low maintenance, germ-free humidifier is that it is made from antimicrobial plastic. Which resists the growth of mold and bacteria in the tank.

Manufacturer: great innovations
Dimensions 8 by 8 by 18.5 in
Weight: 3.83 lb
Square footage covered: 600 square feet
Run time without refilling: 96 hours

Features:

Adjustable humidistat that adjust according to the relative humidity in the room

Remote
Auto shut off and beat notification when it runs out of water
15 inch extension nozzle
Aromatherapy option
Antimicrobial plastic construction

Remarks:

Easily one of the all around best humidifiers available. The humidifier features just about everything you can possibly want out of a humidifier and looks great doing it.

Buy Winix LightCel UV Humidifiers Here

Winix Ultrasonic humidifier with LightCel UV

Winix is known for their air purifiers that feature Plasmawave technology.

With this humidifier they have dove into the humidification world with a humidifier that has a UV +LED Light that targets bacteria and germs before they can become an issue and your humidifier.

It includes demineralization capsules that will help reduce the amount of cleaning also.

This humidifier holds two gallons of water and it will run for 120 hours without having to refill it.

And it can also be used as either a cool mist or a warm mist humidifier.

Manufacturer: Winix
Dimensions 8.5 x 10.6 by 14.6 in
Weight: 5.9 lbs
Tank size: 2 gallons
Maximum noise level: 30db

Features:

UV + LED antibacterial light
120 hours between refills
2 gallon tank
Programmable timer
Auto shutoff
Very quiet at 30 fb
Warm mist and cool mist
Demineralization capsules included

Remarks:

Winix have successfully managed to carve out a space for ionic technology in the air purification world that is dominated by HEPA filters.

And it looks like they have managed to design an excellent humidifier that helps control bacteria as well as keeps the humidifier cleaner longer as well.

Click here for Crane Humidifiers

Crane humidifier with UV

This is a humidifier that features all the bells and whistles but with a twist, it contains a UV lamp to kill bacteria and germs in the water tank before they become a cleaning issue and a breathing issue.

Variable speed settings and an adjustable 360 degree Mist lid make it excellent for using in a large area. It can humidify rooms up to 500 square feet and run for 24 hours without having to refill.

But it does not contain an aromatherapy option.

Manufacturer: Crane
Dimensions: 14 by 10 by 16 in
Weight: 7.26 lb
Square footage covered: 500
Tank size: 1.2 gallons
Run time: 24 hours between refills

Features:

ultraviolet ionizing light
500 square feet
Adjustable sit and leave humidistat
Easy to clean

Remarks

This crane humidifier does not feature an aromatherapy essential oils option.
But it does say that it creates a refreshing smelling mist.

Ionizing air purifier manufacturers often spin the smell of ozone coming from their units as an “after a thunderstorm fresh smell”.

This humidifier doesn’t make any claims of ozone production but it is interesting that they use the same language and that they have an ultraviolet ionizing lamp included.

The reviews are hit-and-miss with a lot of people saying that the humidistat failed fairly soon after their purchase.

Click Here to Purchase Boneco s450

Boneco s450

There is a way to bypass all the issues of adding a ultraviolet lamp to a humidifier or putting additives in the tank or purchasing a humidifier that’s made out of antimicrobial plastic,

And that is to purchase a warm mist humidifier that boils the water before it is emitted into the air as steam.

Warm mist humidifiers or vaporizers are not for everyone because steam will raise the temperature in a room.

But as far as warm mist humidifiers go, Boneco has a humidifier that is next level.

It can humidify an area as large as 860 square feet. And it is very quiet coming in at 37 db on the high side.

Manufacturer: Boneco
Country: Switzerland
Dimensions: 13.2 by 9.5 by 14 in
Tank size: 2 gallons
Weight: 10.1 inches
Wattage: 480

Features:

860 square feet coverage
Humidity display
Humidistat
Mist output control
Safety Auto shut-off
Programmable timer
Essential oil options

Remarks

This is a warm mist humidifier that has all the bells and whistles you typically find with the big brands like Levoit.
Warm mist vaporizers or an easy way to get a bacteria free experience from a humidifier.

But they do use steam to humidify, which can make a room feel swampy.

This is a real nice humidifier but personally I would pick a humidifier that has a cool mist option as well as a warm mist often.

Symptoms of High Humidity in Your Home (A Long Frizzy List)

If there is one thing that I have learned this past summer season is that a little humidity goes a long way.

This has been, no doubt, one of the rainiest spring and summer seasons I have ever lived through.

The heat has been through the roof and the air conditioners don’t even feel like they’re on half the time.

I guess we all know how miserable, excessive humidity can feel going through our regular work and school days.

And just about everybody has had an experience with their hair looking terrible because of the humidity outside,

But comfortability and great hair could be the least of your worries when the humidity has risen sky high in your home.

Symptoms of High Humidity in Your Home

If you tell tale signs that the humidity inside of your house is too high.

1. Condensation on the windows

Everybody knows what it looks like in the bathroom when they get out of a hot steamy shower.

The mirror gets completely fogged over in the windows get a layer of condensation on them.

That’s par for the course and completely understandable in the bathroom.

But if you have condensation on the windows in other parts of the house, that’s not normal.

That is definitely a symptom of high irregular moisture in the air.

2. Allergies and breathing issues

Air that is heavy with humidity can be harder to breathe. Especially if you’re coming from an area that is dry and traveling to an area that is extra humid like the tropics.

But adapting to breathing extra wet air is not the only thing that makes humidity tough on your respiratory system.

Humidity just happens to be one of the main ways that dust mites get their nourishment.

Heavy humidity can cause an explosion of dust mites. Which are a common household allergen that can cause you to have multiple symptoms like sneezing, itchy eyes, and coughing.

Another allergen known to be spurred on by higher humidity is mold. More specifically the mold spores that are released from the mold and travel through the air looking for the next place to take root.

Allergies and breathing problems while in the house can definitely be a symptom of high humidity.

3. Visible mold growing on the wall

If you have mold on the wall, there is no doubt that you have an issue with high humidity in the area of said mold.

Humidity is not only caused by climate, you can just as easily because of a leaking pipe.

Mold only needs a simple recipe of dampness, darkness, and something to feed on.

That’s why you find mold growing in places like under the kitchen and bathroom sinks so often.

If you find mold growing on the walls, you will also find a source of moisture fairly close by. Guaranteed.

4. Wet drywall

If a room is exposed to heavy humidity for too long, the drywall can begin to absorb moisture out of the air.

The result can be areas in the drywall that are damp to the touch or slightly bowing.

Damp drywall can also be a symptom of humidity inside of the walls caused by a leaking pipe inside and near the damp part of the drywall.

Discoloration of the drywall is also a telltale sign that you have excessive humidity somewhere in the area.

If you have a dark discoloration in the drywall, you can be fairly sure that you have a leaky pipe in that area.

You probably noticed the leak like this in the ceiling before.

5. The smell of mildew

Mold and mildew have a specific smell that is hard to miss.

Even when you don’t see any signs of mold growing on the walls or find any areas of dampness,

The smell of mildew is a surefire indication that there is mold growing somewhere.

Your nose always knows so follow your nose.

Excessive humidity in your house can cause mildew to grow in any dark corner it can find.

Which means it will not be obvious to your eyes. So trust your nose, if you smell mildew, you are smelling a symptom of high humidity.

6. Air conditioner doesn’t feel like it’s running

High humidity can make the air conditioner feel like it’s doing very little or nothing at All.

If you got the air conditioner on and you know the filters are clean and there’s nothing going on with the thermostat,

There’s a good chance that the humidity level is just at a point that it’s causing the AC to feel pointless.

An Air conditioner not feeling cold can definitely be a symptom of high humidity and excessive moisture in the air.

7. Excessive condensation coming from your air conditioner

If you are running a window air conditioner or using the air conditioner in your HVAC system and you notice a lot of condensation building up and dripping out of your unit,

You can bet that the humidity is high.

That is because these units convert the humidity in the air to condensation and funnel it outside.

Another way the air conditioner can provide you with a symptom of high humidity.

8. AC is set to “Fan on” instead of “Auto”

If your air conditioner is set to the fan on position, the humidity that is typically funneled out of the air conditioner doesn’t have enough time to evaporate and is blown back into the house through the vents.

This can also happen when your air conditioner unit is too big for your house.

If your unit is too big then it can cause rapid cycling which will also not give the humidity enough time to evaporate before it’s blown back into the house.

Improper settings and unit size of an air conditioner can cause and be a symptom of high humidity in the home.

Summary

Symptoms of high humidity in the home come in the form of condensation on the windows and mold growing on the walls.

Other symptoms that suggest does the humidity is too high inside of the home is an air conditioner but just doesn’t feel like it’s doing anything

or having a hard time breathing because of the amount of dust mites and mold spores traveling through the air because of the high level of moisture feeding them.

And if you are smelling the musty smell of mildew, you can bet there is mold growing somewhere around you.

Another symptom that you have high humidity in your home.

What to do?

Dehumidifier

A dehumidifier is a device that pulls humidity out of the air. Dehumidifiers come in all sizes and range from simple ” dump the water out yourself models” to modern Wi-Fi units that include humidistats with a pump and a hose attachment that make it super convenient to use.

Dry mode on the AC

There’s a good chance that the settings on your air conditioner include “dry mode”.

“Dry mode” is the dehumidifying function of a refrigerated air conditioning unit.

The AC itself

Though the humidity can get to a point that it makes the cool function of an air conditioner seem like it’s not doing anything,

Running the air conditioner, provided we are talking about a refrigerated AC, will still reduce the humidity inside of your home.

And many times, it’s not the temperature that’s making your home uncomfortable, just the humidity itself.

Ozone Generator Sizing Guide: What Size You Need for Smoke, Mold, Pets, or Skunk

Ozone Generator Sizing Guide: Find the Right Size for Any Room or Problem

Trying to figure out how powerful of an ozone machine you need? Whether you’re clearing out cigarette smoke, cooking odors, or something much worse, the right ozone generator size makes all the difference. Too small, and you’ll be running it for hours without results. Too large, and you could end up with lingering ozone long after the job is done.

This guide walks you through the numbers, the expectations, and the safety tips — so you can choose the right size with confidence.

Disclaimer: This guide is for informational use only. Never use an ozone generator in an occupied space. Always follow manufacturer instructions and allow time for ozone to dissipate before reentry.

❓ How Strong of an Ozone Generator Do I Really Need?

Answer: Match output to your room size: about 1,000 mg/h per 100–150 sq ft. For stubborn odors like smoke or skunk, scale up or plan on multiple treatments.

Room Size Chart (with Output Range)

Room Type	Square Footage	Suggested Output
Closet, Bathroom, Small Bedroom	100–200 sq ft	1,000–3,000 mg/h
Living Room, Kitchen, Office	200–500 sq ft	3,000–7,000 mg/h
Basement, Garage, Open Concept Space	500–1,000+ sq ft	8,000–12,000+ mg/h

❓ Can I Use Too Much Ozone?

Answer: Yes — but the danger comes from reentering too soon. Larger generators release more ozone faster, but ozone naturally decays within 30–90 minutes. Always allow time and ventilate after treatment.
Because the machine’s output level affects how quickly the air becomes safe again, you can find more detailed re-entry timelines in our guide on how long to wait after using an ozone generator

Rule of Thumb: Wait 1 hour for every hour of ozone treatment — or 2 hours if using a high-output machine.

What Does Ozone Smell Like?

One of the first things people notice during or after a treatment is the distinct smell of ozone. It’s often described as sharp, clean, and slightly metallic — similar to chlorine, an electric spark, or the air after a lightning storm.

This smell is perfectly normal. It’s a sign that ozone was generated and is still active in the air. If you can still smell ozone, it’s not safe to reenter the room just yet. Let the space air out fully and wait until the scent fades to a barely noticeable level or disappears entirely.

Don’t worry if the smell lingers longer than expected. Factors like low ventilation, soft furnishings, or high output machines can extend the time it takes for ozone to fully break down. Just crack a window and use a fan to help speed it up.

❓ Can I Treat the Whole House at Once?

Answer: Technically yes, but it’s usually not the best approach. Treating one room at a time gives you better control and deeper results. If you do treat the whole house, keep interior doors open and use fans to help ozone circulate.

Pro Tip: Ozone doesn’t flow like air freshener — it needs time, circulation, and space to reach problem areas.

Visual safety guide showing icons for no people or pets, use a timer, post warning signs, ventilate the area, and follow instructions."

Ceiling Height Makes a Big Difference

Most ozone sizing guides only consider floor space — but ceiling height matters too. Why? Because ozone fills the entire volume of a room, not just the surface area. The more vertical space you have, the more ozone you’ll need to fill it effectively.

As a quick reference, multiply your room’s square footage by the ceiling height to get the total cubic feet. A 300 sq ft room with 8-foot ceilings = 2,400 cubic feet. But if that same room has 12-foot ceilings, you’re working with 3,600 cubic feet — 50% more airspace to treat.

Rule of thumb: If your ceilings are over 10 feet tall, increase your ozone output by 25–50%, or plan on longer treatment times. This ensures ozone can reach the upper corners of the room effectively.

Small vs Medium vs Large Ozone Generators: What to Expect

Ozone machines are rated in milligrams per hour (mg/h). That number tells you how much ozone the machine puts out — but it doesn’t always tell you what results you’ll get. Here’s what you can expect from each size:

🔸 Small Units: 1,000–3,000 mg/h

Best for: Closets, small bedrooms, cars, pantries
Room size: Up to 200 sq ft
Treatment time: 30–60 minutes
What to expect: Light odors removed in one session; stronger odors may require 2–3 cycles
Bonus: Great for small containers or odor-proof boxes (treat shoes, books, or clothes)

🔸 Medium Units: 3,000–7,000 mg/h

Best for: Bedrooms, kitchens, offices, mild smoke damage
Room size: 200–500 sq ft
Treatment time: 1–2 hours
What to expect: Handles most odors in one or two sessions; easy to carry and store
Common use: Landlords, car detailers, Airbnb hosts

🔸 Large Units: 8,000–12,000+ mg/h

Best for: Basements, open floorplans, large living rooms
Room size: 500–1,000+ sq ft
Treatment time: 2–4 hours (longer for severe odors)
What to expect: Strong ozone smell afterward; may need extra ventilation time
Caution: Overkill for small rooms — always follow wait-time safety instructions

Portable vs. Professional Ozone Generators

Not all ozone machines are built the same. While most consumer-grade units are marketed by their output — like 5,000 or 10,000 mg/h — there are important differences between portable models and commercial-grade machines.

Portable units are typically lightweight, made with plastic or thin aluminum casings, and designed for short cycles in single rooms or cars. These are great for DIY odor removal projects at home.
If you are ready to see which specific models we recommend for these types of home projects, you can read our full breakdown of the best ozone generators currently on the market.
Professional ozone generators tend to have metal housings, stronger internal fans, better heat sinks, and often include multi-stage timers, fan speed settings, and ozone plate controls. They’re built to withstand longer runtimes, and some are rated for treating very large spaces or entire buildings.

Also, be cautious with extremely cheap models — especially those sold by unfamiliar brands with questionable mg/h claims. Look for third-party reviews, real product specs, and a manufacturer that actually publishes safety documentation.

If you’re still unsure whether renting or purchasing is best for your situation, this guide explains when ozone machine rental is the right choice

❓ What Size Ozone Generator Should I Use for My Car?

Answer: A 3,000–5,000 mg/h unit is usually enough for cars, trucks, and RVs. Run it with windows up and a small fan inside to help circulate ozone through seats and vents. Most treatments take 30–60 minutes, but tough odors may require a second session.

Reminder: Never sit in the car during treatment — and air it out for at least 30 minutes after ozone use.

Match the Ozone Size to the Problem You’re Solving

Room size is important — but so is the type of odor or contamination you’re dealing with. Here’s a quick guide:

🚬 Cigarette Smoke

Best size: 5,000–10,000 mg/h
Use notes: May need multiple treatments

🐾 Pet Odors

Best size: 3,000–5,000 mg/h
Use notes: Use in areas where pets sleep or mark

🦠 Moldy or Musty Smell

Best size: 5,000–10,000 mg/h
Use notes: For odor only — does not kill mold in walls or materials

🦨 Skunk Odor

Best size: 10,000–12,000+ mg/h
Use notes: May require multiple high-output treatments

🔥 Fire/Smoke Damage

Best size: 10,000–20,000 mg/h
Use notes: Use only for odor; not for cleanup or restoration

🚗 Cars, Vans, and RVs

Best size: 3,000–5,000 mg/h
Use notes: Short cycles with a fan inside help spread ozone

Ozone Works Best After You Clean the Source

Ozone is excellent at removing odors — but it can’t replace cleaning. Think of it as the final step after you’ve removed the source of the smell.

If you’re treating smoke odor, for example, ozone can neutralize the lingering particles in the air and surface fabrics. But it won’t remove sticky tar or nicotine residue left on walls or inside furniture. The same goes for pet odors soaked into carpet pads or mold behind drywall — if the source remains, the smell may return.
Remember, ozone’s size and power don’t make it a pest solution — even strong units can’t reach bed bugs. Here’s why.

Before using an ozone generator, always clean as much as you can first. Vacuum, wipe down surfaces, remove soft items if possible, and address any visible mold or soot. Ozone is most effective in a clean, dry, and sealed environment.

❓ Can I Run the Ozone Generator More Than Once?

Answer: Yes — and for stubborn odors, you’ll probably need to. It’s perfectly safe to run multiple ozone cycles as long as you allow time for the ozone to decay between treatments.

Tip: Run one cycle, wait 2–4 hours, ventilate, then repeat. You’ll get better results and keep it safe.

Ozone Safety: What You Need to Know Before You Plug It In

✅ Do:

Leave the room completely during treatment
Post a warning sign on doors
Wait 1–2 hours after cycle ends
Use fans to help ventilation
Start small — you can repeat if needed

❌ Don’t:

Use ozone around people, pets, or plants
Use near fish tanks or sealed food
Run it in a shared space without notifying others
Assume “more ozone” means better results
Rush reentry — always allow time to air out

Important: Ozone machines are not medical devices or professional restoration tools. Always use in unoccupied spaces and follow safety guidelines carefully.

📚 Want to Go Deeper?

These guides cover ozone safety, deeper system strategies, and when to consider alternatives to ozone treatment.

Still wondering What ozone smells like? Learn why people describe ozone as smelling like chlorine, electricity, thunderstorms, and even burnt electronics.

Does HEPA Filters Remove Asbestos? Common Questions

Does HEPA Filters Remove Asbestos?

The answer Yes and No.

And asbestos air scrubber or air purifier uses HEPA filters but consumers are warned that an air purifier can have leaks that do not qualify it to be a proper asbestos abatement tool.

Professionals use HEPA as part of there bestest abatement process but as a homeowner the best HEPA asbestos air purifier should be left as a precautionary after the abatement is finished.

Asbestos is a scary subject as well as it should be.

Long-term exposure to asbestos can cause serious health problems including cancers like mesothelioma.

But since it is such a ominous subject that many people deal with, and there is a lot of misconceptions and questions people have when they think they have asbestos or have come in contact with it.

Avoid using paper mask as asbestos fibers or much too small for a paper mask to offer protection

We created a small hit list of common questions.

Does a HEPA Filter Remove Asbestos?
Yes a HEPA filter will remove asbestos. HEPA filters are engineered to capture particles as small as .3 microns. Asbestos micron sizes or in the .7 to 90 length and size. A HEPA filter for asbestos is usually found in the form of an asbestos respirator. A HEPA respirator should always be used doing with asbestos dust. Respirators with a p100 rating render the greatest amount of protection.

Does a HEPA Filter Remove Asbestos?

Yes a HEPA filter will remove asbestos. HEPA filters are engineered to capture particles as small as .3 microns.

Asbestos micron sizes or in the .7 to 90 length and size.

A HEPA filter for asbestos is usually found in the form of an asbestos respirator.

A HEPA respirator should always be used doing with asbestos dust.

Respirators with a p100 rating render the greatest amount of protection.

Does Asbestos stay in the air?

Asbestos can stay in the air up to 72 hours and longer when there are currants carrying it around.

Can you Vacuum Asbestos?

No you should never vacuum asbestos. Sweeping and vacuuming asbestos dust will only aggravate it and push it into the air stream where you can breathe it in.

Is Asbestos Dangerous When Wet?

Keeping asbestos wet is one way of keeping the particles stable but they do not enter the Airstream.

In fact asbestos when it is in water is not found to be dangerous and can even be swallowed without it becoming hazardous.

How long do you have to be exposed to asbestos for it to be harmful?

Low exposure to asbestos seldom causes disease. One brief Exposure does not cause a big risk.

But multiple brief exposures can add up to a significant amount of asbestos fiber being breathed.

Asbestos can be harmful to breathe in small amounts, and if you have been exposed to asbestos, it is best to tell your doctor before any breathing related issues arise.

There is clearly a difference between someone who has come into brief contact with it compared to someone who has worked with it in construction for a long time.

Long-term exposure to asbestos and pre-existing lung diseases as well as how long you were exposed and how much of it was in the air all have a factor and how harmful it can be.

Are Asbestos Risk Overblown?

Long-term exposure to asbestos causes lung disease and mesothelioma.
That’s about as serious as it gets. These diseases can significantly shorten your life span and cause your life to be a living hell dealing with the cancer.

Short-term risk may be considered by some to be overblown because of the majority of people who suffer from asbestos-related diseases we’re exposed too heavy amounts of asbestos dust for a long period Of time.

Remember that working with asbestos is not the only way you can be exposed to it. Whenever it is Disturbed, it poses a hazard. For this reason it is important to know are you have Building Products that use asbestos in your home.

Can you smell asbestos? Is asbestos odorless?

Asbestos does not have an odor.

Can you Taste Asbestos?

No asbestos does not have a taste either.

Can you See Asbestos?

Asbestos fibers or not visible to the naked eye.

Will Asbestos Make Your Skin Itch.

No asbestos will not make your skin itchy like fiberglass.

If you are dealing with an older home, looking for asbestos is as practical as considering the building materials used at the time.

For instance ceiling tiles were the rage back then but they were typically made out of asbestos materials.

As were vinyl floor tiles. Cement sheets were used for outdoor siding which also contained asbestos.

If you have a home that was built before the 1980s , there is a good chance that you have some materials that have asbestos in them. Having your home tested is a good ideal.

Should I Test for Asbestos?

Short answer, no. You should contact a professional if you think you have asbestos in your home. Remember that insurance will not cover the cost if you not go through the proper channels.

Popcorn Asbestos

If you have a popcorn ceiling that you believe with chance of containing asbestos, it is best to have it tested.

As stated before, doing your own test or remediation can cause you to be up a Creek with no paddle when it comes to getting help from your insurance company.

Most insurance will not cover any type of do it yourself asbestos testing or handiwork.

As long as asbestos is not disturbed, it is not dangerous.

An Asbestos ceiling can be sprayed with vinyl paint to keep it from crumbling.

It won’t change the look of the ceiling but it will help avoid the cost of having the ceiling completely removed by a professional.

If it’s safety issue where the ceiling is in danger of being scraped, a professional can place gypsum board over the asbestos ceiling to keep it from being disturbed and removing the dated look of the popcorn texture.

What Kind of Cancer Does Asbestos Cause?
1. Mesothelioma.
2. Ovarian Cancer
3. Laryngeal Cancer
4. Lung Cancerv

Can you get Mesothelioma from one exposure?

Asbestos cancer or mesothelioma occurs primarily in people who have had long term, high levels of exposure.

One exposure does not pose of developing Mesothelioma.

Asbestos on Shoes.

Getting asbestos on your shoes and clothing will provide a means of travel for the dust. Second hand exposure to asbestos can happen by the transfer of asbestos on your clothes and shoes.

The fears connected to asbestos come from the long-term heavy exposure because of the building materials that Carpenters and laymen were using daily
before the 1980s. But the fear of cancer should not concern you if you happened to come across asbestos. It takes much more than just a one-off incident.

Clothing and shoes are really not an issue anymore as for working with asbestos because companies are required to carry the proper protective wear. When you are done working, you simply leave the clothing behind.

Basement Air Conditioning: Window ACs, Mini-Splits, Portable ACs and More

Basement air conditioning can be challenging because basements have unique cooling and humidity problems.

Small windows, high humidity, poor ventilation, and moisture issues often make traditional window air conditioners less effective. Portable air conditioners, mini-splits, dehumidifiers, and HVAC extensions may provide better solutions depending on your basement layout.

Why Basement Air Conditioning Often Isn’t the Real Problem

Many people start looking for basement air conditioning because the basement feels damp, stuffy, or uncomfortable even though the temperature isn’t all that high.

In many cases, the real problem isn’t heat.

It’s humidity.

Why a Cool Basement Can Still Feel Uncomfortable

Basements are naturally cooler than the upper floors of a home because they are surrounded by soil and concrete.

Yet a basement can feel clammy at 68°F while the upstairs feels comfortable at 74°F.

That’s because humidity affects comfort just as much as temperature.

High humidity makes the air feel heavier.
Sweat evaporates more slowly.
Musty odors become more noticeable.
Mold growth becomes more likely.

The Stack Effect

Homes naturally pull air from lower levels and release it through upper levels.

This process, known as the stack effect, can draw humid outdoor air into the basement through small cracks around foundations, windows, and utility penetrations.

Even if the basement stays cool, moisture can continue building up.

Check Humidity Before Buying More Cooling

First Rule of Thumb.. Before investing your hard earned cash into in a larger air conditioner, check the humidity level of your basement with a hygrometer.

A good target is 45% to 50% relative humidity.

If humidity levels regularly exceed 60%, a dehumidifier may improve comfort more than additional cooling.

If a standard window air conditioner won’t fit your basement window, you still have several effective cooling options. Portable air conditioners, mini-splits, HVAC extensions, and dehumidifiers can all improve basement comfort depending on your layout and humidity levels.

The table below compares the most common basement cooling solutions.

Option	Cost	Installation Difficulty	Best For
Dehumidifier	$$	Easy	Humid, damp, or musty basements
Portable Air Conditioner	$$	Easy	Small basements with limited window space
Mini Split Air Conditioner	$$$$	Hard	Finished basements and long-term comfort
Ventless Air Cooler	$	Easy	Very dry climates only
Existing HVAC System	$$$	Medium	Large finished basements
DIY Basement Cooling Project	$$	Medium	Small basement windows and budget projects

Tip: If your basement feels damp, muggy, or musty rather than hot, a dehumidifier may improve comfort more than adding another air conditioner.

Why Window AC Units Usually Don’t Work Well in Basements

There are a few reasons window air conditioners struggle in basement spaces:

Window size limitations: Most basement or hopper windows are too small to accommodate a standard window air conditioner.
Fire safety and egress concerns: Blocking the only basement window can interfere with emergency escape routes during a fire or other emergency.
Humidity problems: Basements are naturally prone to moisture issues, and cooling alone doesn’t always solve the damp, clammy feeling many homeowners experience.
Limited ventilation: A window air conditioner primarily recirculates indoor air, which can allow musty odors and moisture problems to persist.
Window well airflow restrictions: Many basement windows sit inside window wells that can trap hot exhaust air around the outside portion of the air conditioner. This restricted airflow can reduce efficiency and force the unit to work harder than intended.

Because of these factors, alternatives that focus on dehumidification and proper exhaust usually provide better long-term comfort.

So What Are the Cooling Options for a Basement?

If a window air conditioner isn’t practical for your basement, there are still several ways to cool the space. Some options are temporary and inexpensive, while others require a larger investment but provide better long-term comfort.

Let’s look at some of the most common basement cooling solutions and where each one works best.

1. Portable Air Conditioners

A portable air conditioner is often the easiest alternative when a traditional basement window air conditioner isn’t practical. In many ways, portable AC units and window air conditioners work similarly. Both use refrigeration to cool the air and remove some moisture as part of the cooling process.

The biggest difference is that a portable air conditioner sits inside the room and uses an exhaust hose to vent heat outdoors. This makes portable units a good option for basements with small hopper windows that won’t accommodate a standard window air conditioner.

Most basement installations require some type of window modification or adapter to create a sealed opening for the exhaust hose. Fortunately, this is usually much easier than trying to install a full-size window AC unit in a narrow basement window.

Single-Hose vs. Dual-Hose Portable Air Conditioners

Not all portable air conditioners work the same way.

Most entry-level units use a single exhaust hose. These systems remove air from the room and exhaust it outdoors. The problem is that the air being exhausted has to be replaced from somewhere. In many basements, replacement air is pulled through foundation cracks, window gaps, and other small openings.

This creates what is known as negative pressure. Along with replacement air often comes additional humidity, which can make an already damp basement feel even more uncomfortable.

Dual-hose portable air conditioners use one hose to bring outdoor air into the unit and a second hose to exhaust it back outside. Because they don’t rely as heavily on conditioned room air, they tend to be more efficient and often perform better in basements with humidity issues.

Don’t Forget About Humidity

In many basements, humidity is actually a bigger comfort problem than temperature.

Because basements sit below ground level, they naturally stay cooler than most areas of the home. What often makes them uncomfortable is trapped moisture. Excess humidity can create musty odors, a clammy feeling, and conditions that encourage mold growth.

In some cases, removing moisture can improve comfort more than adding additional cooling. That’s why dehumidifiers, proper ventilation, and air conditioners that actively remove moisture are often recommended for basement spaces.

For many homeowners, a portable air conditioner provides a practical middle ground by offering both cooling and moisture removal without the installation costs associated with a mini-split system.

2. Mini Split Air Conditioners

A mini split air conditioner is one of the best long-term solutions for cooling a basement. Unlike a window air conditioner or portable AC, a mini split doesn’t require a window and can be installed almost anywhere there is an exterior wall.

A mini split system consists of an indoor air handler and an outdoor condenser connected by refrigerant lines. Because the noisy compressor remains outside, mini splits are usually much quieter than portable air conditioners and window units.

Another advantage is that most mini split systems provide both heating and cooling. This makes them a good choice for finished basements, home offices, game rooms, and other spaces that are used throughout the year.

While mini splits typically cost more than portable air conditioners, they are often more efficient and provide better overall comfort. Many homeowners consider them the closest thing to adding a dedicated HVAC system to the basement.

Installation requires a small hole through an exterior wall for the refrigerant lines and electrical connections. Some newer systems are designed for DIY installation, but many homeowners choose to have a professional handle the setup.

If you’re looking for a permanent basement cooling solution and don’t mind the higher upfront cost, a mini split system is often one of the most effective options available.

3. Ventless Air Coolers

Ventless air coolers, also called evaporative coolers or swamp coolers, are sometimes promoted as an alternative to traditional air conditioning because they don’t require a window or exhaust hose.

While that sounds appealing, they are usually a poor choice for most basements.

Unlike traditional air conditioners, evaporative coolers work by adding moisture to the air. As water evaporates, the surrounding air becomes cooler.

This works well in hot, dry climates but creates problems in damp environments.

Since basements already struggle with high humidity, adding more moisture can make the space feel even more uncomfortable and may contribute to mold and mildew growth.

Another drawback is the need for a constant water supply. Depending on the model, this may mean frequent refilling or connecting the unit to a water source.

For these reasons, evaporative coolers are generally not recommended for basements in humid climates.

The exception would be a basement that already has excellent ventilation and good humidity control. In very dry regions, a ventless cooler may provide supplemental cooling at a lower operating cost than a traditional air conditioner.

For most homeowners, a portable air conditioner, mini split system, or dehumidifier will usually provide better results.

4. Extending an Existing HVAC System

If your home already has central heating and air conditioning, extending the existing HVAC system into the basement may be an option.

For finished basements, this can provide a cleaner appearance than portable air conditioners or window units while maintaining a consistent temperature throughout the home.

However, cooling a basement isn’t always as simple as adding a supply vent. Basements have different airflow, humidity, and temperature characteristics than the upper floors of a home.

Without proper planning, adding ductwork can create comfort problems elsewhere in the house or leave the basement feeling uncomfortable.

In some situations, an HVAC contractor may recommend creating a separate HVAC zone for the basement. This allows the basement temperature to be controlled independently from the rest of the home.

While this option is typically more expensive than a portable air conditioner, it can be a good solution for larger finished basements that are used regularly.

5. DIY basement window air conditioning

If you already have a window air conditioner that you were trying to figure out how to use in the basement, then you already know that just putting the air conditioner in the room with you is not going to work.

If you haven’t tried it, here is the reason.

Window air conditioners exhaust heat out the back side.
Just placing a window air conditioner in the room with you will create cooling out of the face, but create heat out of the back.

So basically canceling each other out.

But…
if you had a way of engineering something DIY style, you could use the window air conditioner as long as you had a way venting the heat expelled from the rear of the AC.

Here’s an example of a do-it-yourself window air conditioner turned mobile that could work in the basement as long as you have a hobbit window handy.

Here’s a more detailed look at it.

The whole idea is to take a large storage tub complete with lid and exhaust the heat from the air conditioner into the storage container which is ducted into the small Hobbit basement window.

Though it’s not the prettiest, it can be utilized and would work well for basements that are primarily used as shops, crafting rooms, so forth.

And one of the advantages is that refrigerated air conditioners, be it window or portable, dehumidify as part of the cooling process.

And since basements are notorious for high humidity, having a refrigerated air like a portable or a DIY window air conditioner can be very beneficial.

6. Don’t Overlook the Dehumidifier

Before spending money on a new air conditioner, it may be worth asking a simple question:

Is the basement actually hot, or is it just humid?

Many basements stay naturally cool because they are surrounded by soil and concrete. The real problem is often excess moisture in the air.

High humidity can make a basement feel damp, sticky, and uncomfortable even when the temperature is only 68°F. It can also contribute to musty odors, mold growth, and poor indoor air quality.

In many cases, lowering the humidity level from 65% to 50% can make a basement feel noticeably more comfortable without adding any additional cooling.

A dehumidifier removes moisture from the air and is often one of the most effective ways to improve basement comfort. In fact, some homeowners find that a quality dehumidifier solves the problem without the need for additional air conditioning.

If your basement feels clammy rather than hot, consider checking the humidity level with a hygrometer before investing in a larger cooling system.

For most basements, a humidity level between 45% and 50% is considered ideal.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you put a window air conditioner in a basement?

Yes, but basement windows are often too small for standard window air conditioners. Even if the unit fits, you should consider egress requirements, security concerns, and airflow restrictions caused by window wells.

What is the best way to cool a basement?

The best solution depends on the basement. Portable air conditioners, mini split systems, HVAC extensions, and dehumidifiers can all be effective depending on the amount of space, humidity level, and available windows.

Why does my basement feel humid at 68 degrees?

Humidity is often the cause. A basement can feel damp and uncomfortable even when temperatures are relatively cool. Checking the humidity level with a hygrometer can help determine whether moisture is the real problem.

Do I need a dehumidifier or an air conditioner in my basement?

If the basement feels clammy rather than hot, a dehumidifier may provide more comfort than additional cooling. Many basements benefit from humidity control before additional air conditioning is added.

Can a portable air conditioner be vented through a basement window?

Yes. Portable air conditioners are commonly vented through basement hopper windows using an adapter kit or custom-built insert designed to fit the window opening.

Are swamp coolers good for basements?

Usually not. Swamp coolers add moisture to the air, which can make humidity problems worse in many basements. They are generally better suited for hot, dry climates.

Final Thoughts

While a traditional window air conditioner can work in some basements, it isn’t always the best solution. Small windows, humidity problems, and ventilation concerns often make other options more practical.

Portable air conditioners, mini split systems, HVAC extensions, and dehumidifiers can all improve basement comfort depending on your situation. In many cases, reducing humidity may provide as much benefit as adding more cooling.

Do I Need a Humidifier or Dehumidifier for a Stuffy Nose?

Stuffy Nose Solutions: Choosing Between a Humidifier and Dehumidifier

When dealing with a stuffy nose, the choice between a humidifier and a dehumidifier hinges on your home’s current humidity levels.

A humidifier is beneficial in adding moisture to the air when indoor humidity is below the optimal range of 40-60%, often during dry winter months or in arid climates.

Conversely, a dehumidifier is useful for reducing moisture in overly humid conditions, which can be common in hot, damp climates or during rainy seasons, to mitigate allergens like dust mites and mold that thrive in high humidity and can exacerbate nasal congestion.

Here’s a table to help you decide:

Condition	Humidity Level	Recommended Device	Reason
Dry Indoor Air	Below 40%	Humidifier	To add moisture and alleviate dryness-induced stuffiness
Excessively Humid Air	Above 60%	Dehumidifier	To reduce moisture and control allergens causing congestion

Do you have a stuffy nose? Is Congestion stopping you from thinking great thoughts? Oh the humanity… or is it the humidity?

The humidity outside and inside seems to have a lot to do with a lot of things. But what things? That’s not always too clear.

Stuffy Nose Dilemma: To Humidify or Dehumidify?

It depends.

Is the humidity in your home too high or too low?

A humidifier is to add humidity to a room or space when the relative humidity is too low.

A dehumidifier extracts humidity from the air when the humidity level is too high.

Another way to put it..

Is it winter outside and the house is dried out from the heater being on?

Or is it hot and humid outside and you’ve got a frizzy hairdo to go with your stuffy nose?

Stuffy Noses can happen when the humidity is too high and when the humidity is too low.

Dry air can cause you to feel stopped up and humid air can also cause cold-like symptoms because of dust mites and mold spores, along with other allergens.

What Should the Humidity be Set at?

According to NIH “The majority of adverse health effects caused by relative humidity would be minimized by maintaining indoor levels between 40 and 60%”.

So if your hygrometer is sitting at 50%, the relative humidity in your home is good.

But if you’re below 40%, using a humidifier to add moisture back into the air is the device that will help you correct your humidity and hopefully get you breathing through your nose better again.

If the relative humidity according to your hygrometer is sitting above the 60% mark, then your stuffiness may be due to allergens and dust mites which can be found in the air, when the humidity is too high.

Keeping your Humidity Copacetic (steady as she goes)

Humidity levels inside your home can often be corrected by doing a few things to keep the good in and stop the bad from getting in.

Excessive Humidity

Windows and doors are an easy place to start. Moisture can find its way indoors through the smallest of cracks. And when your windows have not been resealed for a long time, excessive humidity around the windows can cause the seals to warp and rot.

Ceiling of the windows with some caulking and weather stripping can help even out your relative humidity.

Extraction fans or another easy fix.

Those houses come equipped with extraction fans in the bathroom and kitchen and some even have them in the washroom.

Extraction fans are fairly inexpensive and can be put into the ceiling quickly.

Anytime you’re cooking with boiling water or taking a steamy shower or just washing the clothes, using your extraction fans will pull moisture out of the house and into the Attic.

Leaking pipes?

Other sources of humidity in the house can be coming from places or things more undesirable.

For instance if you have plumbing problems or a broken pipe that is leaking inside the house, you are going to be experiencing excessive humidity especially in the area where the pipe is broken.

Leaks not only cause humidity, they cause mold. And mold that has gone unchecked for very long can turn into a big problem fast.

And if you have mold allergies, you may have discovered why you were suffering with a stuffy nose in the process.

Water under the house.

Any water that gets underneath the house can cause humidification to rise from under the floor. This can also be a source of mold and affect your air quality to the point of suffering from allergy symptoms.

Sometimes water under the house can be corrected by stopping any type of ravine that has been maybe etched out by watering the grass. Putting a barrier in front of the water runoff will help it to keep from running beneath your home.

Crawl space encapsulation is a big process that entails putting a plastic barrier between the ground and your house.

Broken and stopped up gutters can also direct water to flow beneath the house.
Fixing these items can often keep the humidity down inside of your home.

Run the air conditioner.

Many times, we forget that the air conditioner works as a dehumidifier to reduce moisture in the air as it cools the air down.

Most modern air conditioners have a dehumidifier setting ready available so that you don’t have to have the cool setting running at the same time.

Basement Dampness

Basements tend to be damp and humid by nature. Since the walls are typically concrete that are built against the moist ground, moisture has a way of working itself into the basement through the concrete.

Sealing up any cracks in the concrete wall is a must to keep moisture out.

The excessive humidity in the basement makes it a less than desirable spot to hang out or sleep. The air quality in the basement can also be responsible for allergy symptoms.

Low Humidity Remedies

Some of the easiest low humidity remedies for your home can be found in the same place that you’re trying to keep the humidity out of in the hot and humid season.

Shower

One of the easiest ways to add some humidity back into your room is to take a long hot shower and leave the doors open. That will allow the steam to migrate into the adjoining rooms as well.

Taking more baths than showers?

Leaving the bathwater in the bath after you bathed will help humidify the area around the bathroom as well.

Dry air pulls humidity from anywhere I can. That’s why dry and cracking skin is such a huge symptom of low humidity.

Cups of water around the house.

Simply leaving some containers of water open around the house can help alleviate some of the dry air. But remember stagnant water can develop bacteria fairly quickly and cause other types of problems. So don’t fill up a 5 gallon bucket so you don’t have to mess with it later.

Boiling water.

This is an old trick I remember from growing up. Mom always had water simmering and boiling in the kitchen and on the heater vents that used to be part of the floor back when.

She often put Vicks and other essential oils in the water to disseminate throughout the house.

Leave the washroom door open.

This may be a little bit on the iffy side if you have any type of allergies to detergents that can make it into your airstream if you leave the washroom door open.

But if you don’t, leaving the washroom door open while you’re washing clothes can invite humidity into the surrounding area.

Leave the dishwasher.

Another one is as simple as leaving the bathwater. Let the dishwater sit after you’re done washing the pots and pans and let the water naturally condense into your Air.H

Recap.

Should you use a humidifier or a dehumidifier when you have a stuffy nose?

The answer depends on whether humidity is too low or too high at the moment.

Low humidity can cause raw stuffy noses, where high humidity can be full of dust mites and bacteria that equates to having a stuffy nose.

A hygrometer is an inexpensive tool that can measure your humidity and tell you exactly or near exactly what your relative humidity is sitting at.

If it is below 40%, then your air is too dry and you need a humidifier to raise the moisture level.

If the humidity is above the 60% mark, then you need a dehumidifier to reduce the humidity.

And the humidifiers and dehumidifiers can be awesome tools, they are not always needed.

There are many things you can do around the house to lower and raise your humidity without purchasing any type of device.

Shutting the bathroom door or leaving the bathroom door open depending on the season is an easy way to add and diminish some of the humidity in the house.

Our humidifier guide answers questions you didn’t even know to ask.

Warm Mist Humidifier – Benefits and Impediments

The humidity in your home has so many direct benefits to your respiratory and skin health but you don’t even notice till the air is dry.

And regardless of the temperature of the humidity, moisture is moisture and you will reap the benefits of a humidifier all the same.

But is there any advantage to choosing a warm mist humidifier other than a cool mist?

What are the benefits of using a warm mist humidifier?

1. Kills bacteria and mold
2. Relieve nasal congestion
3. Good for additives like Vicks and eucalyptus
4. Will warm up a cool room
5. Silent
6. Less hard water buildup and fewer particles released into the air

Don’t miss our in-depth Humidifier Guide.

1. Kills bacteria and mold

Warm mist humidifiers have a built-in advantage to keeping bacteria and mold from forming in and around the humidifier.

What is it?
Heat. Since the water and a warm mist humidifier or vaporizer is heated to a boiling point to create steam, bacteria and mold are a much smaller problem than with a cool mist humidifier because they simply cannot survive the heat.

Does that absolve them of regular cleaning? Not exactly. Any appliance like a humidifier, diffuser, dehumidifier, or air cooler that has a chance for water to be left standing inside it for even a small amount of time can and do have a tendency to grow bacteria in the water.

The chance for bacteria becoming a problem in a warm mist humidifier maybe smaller but it still exists and should not be taken lightly.

2. Relieve congestion

If you have ever sit in a sauna, then you know the feeling of steam opening up your airways.
For many people, steam has a relieving feeling on their nasal passages and opens up their airways nicely when they are stopped up with congestion.

3. Good for Additives like Vicks and Eucalyptus

The combination of warm mist and Vicks congestion medicine can make you feel so much better when you are down sick that there is a whole line of Vicks warm mist vaporizers that have been created and sold just for that.

Other essential oils like eucalyptus and peppermint can also be used in conjunction with warm mist and steam to help break up phlegm and open up your airways to breathe better.

4. Warm a Room Up

Warm mist humidifiers will warm up a space and make it more comfortable when the temperature is chilly.

5. Silent

Warm mist humidifiers and vaporizers are completely silent.

6. Less hard water buildup and particles released into the air

Boiling water has the advantage of separating minerals out of hard water. Which can mean that there is less hard water buildup around your humidifier and less mineral particles that can be emitted into the air when you are using the humidifier.

What’s not to love?

Well there are a few things…

Disadvantages of warm mist humidifiers

1. Creates a swampy atmosphere
2. Not everyone experiences nasal relief from steam
3. Can be dangerous

1.Create a Swampy Atmosphere

Warm mist humidifiers can make a room feel swampy. Humidity is not always the most comfortable feeling especially when the temperature is hot.

And when you’re feeling sick, that steamy feeling is not always welcomed.

2. Not everyone experiences relief from steam.

When the air is dry, adding humidity to the air regardless of the temperature of the humidity will moisten your nasal passages as well as your skin and so forth.
But cool mist can offer more relief sometimes than warm.
Mayo clinic indicates that cool mist can be more of a relief for a cold than warm, but more research is needed.

3. Can Be Dangerous

Warm mist humidifiers heat water to a boiling point as a means of creating steam to humidify the room.

That means that the water would be scalding hot if it were to spill on someone.

That’s why you will find a universal warning on vaporizers that they should not be used in the baby or children’s rooms.

Hot and Cold Combination Humidifiers

There is really no reason to pit a warm mist humidifier up against a cool mist humidifier. There are specific advantages to using both and they both have their disadvantages.

There are many times when you need a vapor machine to help you breathe better immediately, but don’t need the vapor on throughout the night.

There’s also times when the warm mist feels good, but that doesn’t mean you want to sleep in a steamy room.

Modern humidifiers like the Levoit 6L give you the advantage of being able to use the humidifier as a warm mist or cool.

Being able to diffuse essential oils with these humidifiers is a basic feature anymore.
They can be filled from the top, set on auto and left alone, and
They also have the capacity to schedule and turn them off and on via a smart app that can be used with Alexa or Google Assistant.

Humidifiers like Air Innovations are made from mold resistant materials and can also have ultraviolet lamps that target the water to keep mold and bacteria from ever becoming an issue.

Recap.

Warm mist humidifiers have specific benefits that you do not get with a cool mist humidifier.

They have the advantage of heating water to a temperature that automatically reduces any bacteria, germ growth or mold that can take root inside of a humidifier.

They also work very well for disseminating essential oils like eucalyptus and peppermint and work great with Vicks. So much so that Vicks has their own vaporizer meant to do just that.

And many people consider steam to be more of a relief to swollen and dried nasal passages with congestion then using cool mist.

And you can’t beat the fact that they are completely silent.

But on the flip side,..

Not everyone likes the feeling of hot humidity especially when they are sick and trying to sleep.

And there is the issue of being dangerous because of the temperature of the water that they create.

Warm mist humidifiers are never recommended for the children’s room where they can get bumped and accidentally spill.

Best of Both Worlds

Humidifiers like the Levoit 6l give you the advantage of being able to operate the humidifier as a warm or a mist humidifier.

There are times when using vapor to disseminate essential oils can be an awesome way to open up your airways but that doesn’t mean that you want to sleep in a steamy room.

Having the option to use the vapor and then turn the humidifier on cool for the rest of the night while you sleep is a great feature/benefit.

This new style of humidifiers also comes with built-in hygrometers and humidistats that allow you to set and leave your humidifier knowing that it will elevate the humidity and turn off when the appropriate humidity is reached.

Most have the option of being able to fill them from the top as well as operate them from your smartphone or an Alexa or Google Assistant.

Humidifiers like Air Innovations also have the advantage of being made from mold resistant materials that resist bacteria and create a much safer humidifier.

Ozone After Flooding: Miracle Cure or Temporary Cover-Up?

Quick Answer: Ozone can reduce musty flood odors, but a fresher smell doesn’t always mean the problem is solved. Many homeowners are surprised to learn that mold growth and water damage can continue even after the odor seems to disappear.

Ozone After Flooding: Miracle Cure or Temporary Cover-Up?

Maybe you’ve had flooding in the house or worse. Storms and heavy rains have caused historic damage in recent years, and the aftermath can feel overwhelming. Once the water recedes, you’re left with soaked carpets, musty walls, and a smell that refuses to go away. It’s natural to wish for a shortcut — and that’s where ozone generators seem like they might help.

Brands like Enerzen, Airthereal, and OdorStop sell machines that promise to “shock” away stubborn odors from mold, mildew, and bacteria. Commercial providers such as Ozone Solutions even market ozone treatment as part of professional water-damage cleanup. And in theory, ozone works: it breaks apart odor molecules and makes a flooded house smell cleaner within hours. But here’s the catch — agencies like the EPA and CDC caution that ozone doesn’t remove soaked materials or kill mold at the source. Without drying, cleaning, and often professional remediation, the smell — and the health risks — come right back.

Flood recovery is the ultimate test for any air treatment tool. If you’re new to ozone generators, start with our Ozone Generator Starter Guide. It explains how ozone works, when to use it, and how to use it safely before choosing a machine.

What Can You Get Out of an Ozone Generator After a Flood?

An ozone generator can break down the odors left behind by soaked drywall, wet carpet, and bacteria in the air. That’s its main strength. Within a few hours of treatment, the air often smells fresher — and that’s a big relief in the middle of a messy cleanup. Machines from Enerzen or Airthereal make this process easy enough for DIY use, while commercial units from Ozone Solutions are built for restoration companies.

The truth is that using an ozone generator is about 99% odor control. Ozone can also knock down airborne mold spores floating in the room, but that’s not the same as removing the actual mold growing inside walls or under flooring. Where ozone does help is after the heavy flood cleanup work has already been done — once the water is pumped out, soaked materials are removed, and the space has been dried. At that stage, ozone can freshen the air and reduce lingering musty odors, making the home feel more livable while longer-term repairs continue. But it should be seen as a finishing touch, not the main cleanup tool.

The easiest way to think about ozone after flooding is to separate what it can help with from what it can’t.

It Seems Great… But Here’s the Catch

The problem is that ozone works on smells, not on the soaked materials causing them. The EPA and OSHA warn that ozone is a lung irritant and does not kill mold growing deep inside wet wood or drywall. It also doesn’t remove contaminants like mud or sewage that floods often leave behind. So while your nose may say “problem solved,” the actual damage is still there — and it can come back worse if it isn’t dealt with properly.

Here’s What You’re More Likely Looking At

Flood cleanup isn’t just about odors. It’s about moisture, mold, and long-term health. This means cutting out water-soaked drywall, pulling up carpet, and using tools like dehumidifiers and air scrubbers to dry the air. If you don’t, mold spores spread quickly and can trigger allergies, asthma, or worse. That’s why groups like the IICRC (Institute of Inspection Cleaning and Restoration Certification) emphasize drying first, deodorizing second.

Other Devices That Can Help

- HEPA air scrubbers – Machines from brands like BlueDri and Abatement Technologies capture mold spores and dust directly from the air.
- Dehumidifiers – Units from Frigidaire or Aprilaire pull gallons of water out of the air daily, helping stop mold growth before it takes hold.
- Enzyme cleaners – Products like RMR-86 and Concrobium Mold Control actually break down organic growth on surfaces instead of masking it.

For restoration projects where you cannot fully vacate the property, you might want to compare ozone and hydroxyl generators to find a safer professional alternative for occupied homes.

In the End: Pro vs DIY

You can run an ozone generator yourself, and it may give you a short break from the musty smell after a flood. But real cleanup takes more than ozone. Professionals not only use ozone and HEPA equipment, they also know how to safely tear out damaged materials and treat mold at its source. If you’re dealing with a small basement leak, DIY with an OdorStop machine and a strong dehumidifier may help. But if water damage covers multiple rooms or involves sewage, hiring certified pros is the only way to protect your home — and your health — for the long run.
If you are dealing with a manageable leak and want to choose a machine for your own toolkit, you can compare our recommended ozone generators for home use

Ozone vs Other Flood Cleanup Tools

Method	What It Does	Best For	Limits
Ozone Generator	Neutralizes odors by breaking down molecules in the air.	Temporary odor relief after cleanup.	Does not dry, disinfect, or remove mold at the source.
HEPA Air Scrubber	Physically captures mold spores, dust, and contaminants.	Improving indoor air quality during cleanup.	Does not remove moisture or deep odors.
Dehumidifier	Pulls moisture from the air to stop mold growth.	Drying out basements, carpets, and drywall.	Needs continuous power and daily draining or pump-out.
Enzyme Cleaners	Break down organic matter like mold or pet urine.	Spot-treating walls, floors, and carpets.	Surface-level only; not effective for hidden water damage.
Professional Remediation	Certified pros remove damaged materials and use pro-grade drying equipment.	Large-scale flooding, sewage, or long-standing water damage.	Costs more than DIY methods.

FAQ: Ozone Generators and Flood Cleanup

Can ozone remove the musty smell after a flood?
Yes, but only temporarily. Ozone can break down odor molecules in the air and make the house smell fresher, but if carpets, drywall, or wood remain damp, the musty smell will return.

Does ozone kill mold from flooding?
Not effectively. Ozone may reduce airborne spores, but it cannot penetrate soaked building materials to stop mold growth. Mold remediation requires removing and drying affected materials.

When should I use ozone after a flood?
Ozone should only be used after the main cleanup — once standing water is gone, damaged materials are removed, and the space is dry. At that point, ozone can help reduce lingering odors.

How long should an ozone generator run after water damage?
Most consumer units (like those from Enerzen or Airthereal) are run for a few hours at a time in sealed rooms. Large commercial units may run longer, but treatment times vary depending on room size and odor strength.

Is ozone better than a dehumidifier for flood cleanup?
No. A dehumidifier actually dries out the space and prevents mold growth, which is essential after flooding. Ozone only helps with odors, so it should be considered a secondary step, not a replacement.

Ozone for Bed Bugs: Why It Doesn’t Work — and What Actually Does

Ozone can kill bed bugs — but only at levels far too dangerous for people or pets. While ozone gas is powerful enough to destroy bacteria, mold, and odors, the concentrations required to eliminate bed bugs would make a home uninhabitable. Heat, steam, and encasements are far safer and far more effective solutions.

Ozone Seems Like a Quick Fix — But Bed Bugs Aren’t

When you first discover bed bugs, it’s tempting to reach for an ozone generator. After all, ozone can kill bacteria, neutralize odors, and wipe out mold. So why not bed bugs?

The problem is that ozone doesn’t reach where bed bugs live — deep inside mattress seams, wall cracks, and clothing folds. Even powerful commercial units can’t penetrate far enough without filling the air with unsafe levels of ozone gas.

While ozone is the wrong tool for pests, it remains the gold standard for removing the odors they leave behind. If you’re new to ozone generators, start with our Ozone Generator Starter Guide. It explains how ozone works, when to use it, and how to use it safely before choosing a machine.

Warning: Ozone might seem like a fast solution, but bed bugs rarely are. Even with perfect cleaning and treatments, it usually takes several weeks to fully reclaim your bed and bedroom.

So if ozone isn’t the answer, what’s really going on with bed bugs — and how do you get your life back?

Bed Bugs 101: Why They’re a Problem, Where They Hide, and Why Clothes Matter

Why Bed Bugs Are a Big Deal

Bed bugs don’t spread disease, but they do cause itchy bites, sleepless nights, and stress that can wear you down fast. Their bites often appear in clusters or rows, usually on arms, legs, or the neck. Some people have no reaction, while others get red, swollen welts that take days to heal.

The worst part? They’re patient. Bed bugs can live months without feeding, waiting quietly until you lie down again. For a medical overview of symptoms and identification, see the CDC’s guidance: CDC: Bed Bugs.

Where Bed Bugs Hide

Bed bugs are master hiders. They squeeze into paper-thin spaces and prefer places near where people sleep. Typical hiding spots include:

Mattress seams and box spring fabric
Behind headboards and baseboards
Inside screw holes, wall outlets, and picture frames
Under loose wallpaper, rugs, or carpet edges
In dresser drawers, nightstands, and even book bindings
Inside clothing and laundry piles near beds or chairs

For a detailed, practical field guide, see EPA: Bed Bugs and the University of Minnesota Extension’s excellent overview: UMN Extension: Bed Bugs.

Why Clothes Are Such a Big Issue

Clothing gives bed bugs warmth, texture, and scent — all things they seek. They cling to worn items, hide in cuffs, and hitchhike to other rooms or even other homes. A single infested hoodie or blanket can reintroduce bed bugs weeks after you thought they were gone.

That’s why washing and sealing clothes is a crucial step. You’re cutting off one of their best hiding and travel routes.

What Actually Works to Get Rid of Bed Bugs

Here’s the complete, realistic process — not a one-day trick, but a plan that works.

Step 1: Contain and Clean Everything

Strip the bed completely. Put all bedding straight into heavy-duty trash bags or plastic bins beside the bed. Don’t carry loose sheets through the house.
Wash and dry on high heat. Hot water and at least 30 minutes on high heat kills bed bugs and eggs. After drying, immediately seal items in clean bags or bins labeled CLEAN – DO NOT OPEN YET.
Vacuum and steam the bed frame and mattress. Vacuum seams, edges, and cracks. Steam slowly — about 1 inch per second — to let the heat do its job. Let everything dry 30 minutes.
Install mattress and box spring encasements. Zip them completely shut and check the zipper seal. These trap any bugs inside (they’ll starve) and block new ones from getting in. Leave them on for at least 12 months. You can sleep on them immediately.
Add clean bedding. Use freshly laundered sheets and pillowcases from your sealed “clean” set. Keep extras sealed until you’re sure the infestation is gone.
Set up interceptor traps. Place them under each bed leg to catch bugs trying to climb up or down.

Can I sleep in my bed tonight? Yes — once your mattress and box spring are encased and the bed is freshly made, it’s actually better to sleep there. Your body heat and breath draw any remaining bugs toward the traps instead of spreading them elsewhere.

Step 2: Manage Your Clothes the Smart Way

Pick a clean rotation. Before sealing everything, choose ~1 week of outfits. Wash/dry on high heat and store in a sealed tote or bag you open only when dressing.
Keep the rest sealed ~2 weeks. Long enough for hidden bugs to die or starve. If activity persists after two weeks, rewash and keep sealed another week.
Re-wash as you rotate. When your wear set gets dirty, launder on high heat and return it to the clean tote.
Dirty clothes protocol. Toss worn items directly into a “to-wash” bag — never on the bed or floor.

Step 3: Vacuum and Steam Regularly

Vacuum daily for 2 weeks, then every other day for one more week. Focus on corners, baseboards, bed frame joints, and under furniture. Seal/dispose bags outdoors immediately.
Steam weekly to hit hatchlings that survived the first pass.

Step 4: Use EPA-Approved Bed Bug Sprays

Choose products that clearly list “bed bugs” on the label (e.g., Ortho Home Defense, EcoRaider, Harris, Bedlam). Apply carefully in cracks, furniture joints, and along baseboards. Repeat every 7–10 days for three cycles to catch newly hatched bugs, and ventilate rooms after use. For pesticide safety basics, see EPA: Controlling Bed Bugs.

Step 5: Sleep in Your Bed (Really)

It feels wrong, but it’s necessary. Once your bed is encased and clean, keep sleeping in it. If you start sleeping on the couch, the infestation spreads. Interceptors under the legs help confirm progress.

Step 6: Use Ozone for Odor Cleanup Only

After your pest treatments are complete, ozone can be useful to remove musty or chemical odors. Run the generator in an empty room for 1–2 hours (3–4 hours for larger rooms). Air out for at least 12 hours before re-entry. Use ozone only for deodorizing — not for killing bed bugs.
If you are shopping for a machine to handle this final step, you can review our recommended ozone generators for home use to find a unit that balances performance with safety features.
For safety guidance and limitations of ozone indoors, see the EPA’s advisory: EPA: Ozone Generators that are Sold as Air Cleaners.

How Long It Takes to Reclaim Your Room

Here’s the real timeline most people experience:

Phase	What’s Happening	What You Can Do	Bed/Room Use
Days 1–3	First cleanup: wash, vacuum, encase, and trap.	Bag laundry, set traps, encase mattress.	Safe to sleep with encasement.
Week 1–2	Eggs hatch; traps catch wanderers.	Vacuum daily, reapply spray after 7–10 days.	Fully usable, but stay consistent.
Week 3–4	Population drops sharply.	Steam again, inspect traps and seams.	Normal use with caution.
Week 5–8	No new bites or spots; hidden bugs starve.	Keep encasement and traps in place.	Back to normal life.
Month 3–4	Complete eradication.	Continue light monitoring.	Maintain encasement as prevention.

Comparison: Ozone vs. Other Bed Bug Treatments

Treatment	Kills Eggs	Safe Indoors	DIY Option	Cost	Best For
Ozone	No	⚠️ Not at effective levels	⚠️ Risky	$$	Odor removal only
Heat Treatment (Pro)	Yes	Yes (professional)	No	$$$$	Full infestations
Steam Cleaning	Yes	Yes	Yes	$$	Mattresses & furniture
Encasements & Traps	No (trap/starve)	Yes	Yes	$	Prevention & monitoring
EPA Sprays	Yes	Use as directed	Yes	$	Light infestations

Common Myths About Ozone and Bed Bugs

Myth 1: “Ozone kills everything.”
Fact: It kills exposed organisms, not hidden insects or eggs. See EPA’s ozone advisory.

Myth 2: “You can just run it overnight.”
Fact: The ozone level needed would be unsafe to breathe.

Myth 3: “If it smells clean, the bugs are gone.”
Fact: Ozone removes odors but doesn’t confirm pest removal.

Myth 4: “You can’t sleep on your bed for months.”
Fact: Once encased, your mattress is safe to sleep on immediately.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can ozone kill bed bug eggs?
No. Bed bug eggs have thick shells that protect them from ozone exposure.

Is ozone safer than pesticides?
Not at the concentrations needed for pest control. Ozone can harm your lungs and corrode electronics. For indoor ozone risks, see EPA.

What kills bed bugs instantly?
Heat above 120°F kills them and their eggs on contact — that’s why steam and professional heat treatments are so effective. See EPA: Bed Bugs.

Can I use ozone on my mattress?
Only after extermination, for odor cleanup. Run ozone in an empty room and ventilate afterward.

How do I remove the ozone smell afterward?
Open windows, use fans, and wash fabrics. Baking soda and sunlight also help. See our guide: Ozone Smell on Clothes.

Final Thoughts

Ozone might make the room smell cleaner, but it won’t solve a bed bug problem. They’re stubborn, patient insects that require time and consistency — not just gas or chemicals.

The good news is, with heat, steam, encasements, and persistence, you can reclaim your bed and your sleep safely. Stick to the plan, stay consistent for a few weeks, and you’ll win.

Still wondering What ozone smells like? Learn why people describe ozone as smelling like chlorine, electricity, thunderstorms, and even burnt electronics.

Learn More

What is the Ideal Humidifier Setting in Winter?

What is the Ideal Humidity Setting in Winter?

It seems that humidity and humidification are a subject that are gaining interest as people are becoming more aware of the impact that moisture levels in the home, School, work or otherwise, can have not only on dry noses and cracking skin but even more importantly the transmission of viruses.

“The ideal humidity setting on a hygrometer or humidifier is 50 Percent. According to the National Library of Medicine: “the majority of adverse health effects caused by relative humidity would be minimized by maintaining indoor levels between 40 and 60%.”

When conditions are dry, airborne viral particles become smaller and or able to travel much further.

Humidity makes the particles wider and weighs them down so they are not able to float, which reduces the particles located in the ambient air (the air you breathe) and inhibits their capacity to spread.

Exciting.

It’s interesting that simply adding moisture to the air can create indoor conditions where viruses and bacteria along with other dust particles can reduce respiratory illness.

Humidity levels in the winter are typically exceptionally low. The lack of moisture in the air creates all types of havoc with your body including:

Dry skin
Lowered immunity
Raw and bloody noses
Dry throat
Acne
Congestion
Static electricity
Frizzy hair

But you may be asking how do you know what your humidity actually is in the house?

That’s all good and fine knowing that humidity can affect your health but if you don’t know what your humidity is or how to correct it, what’s the use?

Humidity is measured with what’s called a hygrometer.

Hygrometers can be purchased as standalone devices but you will mostly find them as digital units combined with thermometers these days.

A thermohygrometer coupled with a humidifier to add moisture to the air is all the tools you will need to increase your relative humidity when conditions are too dry in your home or workplace.

This method works by using trial and error and increasing or decreasing the output of your humidifier as needed.

But even though it works, it’s not the most convenient as it will take a lot of monitoring between the humidifier and the hygrometer to achieve and maintain the proper humidity level.

Lucky for us, humidifiers have raced into the new age and are among the upper echelon of appliances that come equipped with smart technology to auto control your humidifier, but it turns on and off as needed according to censored hygrometer technology.

In other words, it increases and decreases humidity automatically.

Smart humidifiers not only can be controlled using Alexis and Google Assistant, they can also tell you your home humidity levels directly from an app on your phone and let you control it as needed.

Smart technology is only the beginning of where this new generation of humidifiers get started.

For instance the Levoit 6 l whole house smart humidifier can be utilized as either a warm mist or a cool mist humidifier.

It is equipped with sleep mode, essential aromatherapy oil ready, and is ultra quiet.

And one of the smartest features of this new breed of humidifiers is that they are top fill.

Which means they are much easier to put water in than the old plastic pharmacy style humidifiers that had to have the tank taken off and turned upside down underneath a faucet to fill it.

Other advances in humidifiers include methods of keeping humidifiers cleaner longer.

Technologies like UV light and antimicrobial plastic or advancing humidification to a new level. see: Self Cleaning Humidifiers

It’s no secret that humidifiers are among the most maintenance heavy devices.

Humidifiers must be kept clean to avoid germs and bacteria from growing inside of the water.

Unfortunately the same device that can reduce your chances of getting sick in the winter can also make you sick if it is not maintained properly.

That’s what makes these new technologies like ultraviolet light and antimicrobial materials so exciting.

You can imagine that in the future we are going to see humidifiers that alert us when they are in danger of developing bacteria and humidifiers that simply clean themselves.

We’re not quite there yet. But it’s definitely on the horizon. (Vaporizers use boiling water to create steam. Since the water is brought to a high temperature, bacteria is not able to survive)

What Humidity Setting Should You Use in Winter?

According to PubMed, 40 to 60% relative humidity in the home, School, or workplace is the ideal humidity to minimize adverse health effects caused by humidity.

Humidity can adversely affect your health when it is too low or too high.

Though most people generally pull out the humidifier when they start getting bloody noses and congestion, humidifiers can relieve all types of conditions including dry and cracking skin, dried out nasal passages, acne, viral spread, and lowered immunity.

Though they can be purchased separately and used in conjunction with your humidifier, hygrometers, which are the tool that is used to measure humidity, come built in to humidifiers as a standard feature these days.

Smart humidifiers can automatically increase or decrease the humidity level inside of the house to maintain the optimal humidity of 40 to 60%.

They also give you the advantage and convenience of being able to control and schedule your humidifier with your phone or using an Alexis device or Google Assistant.

This new breed of humidifier offers features like the capacity to use the humidifier is either a warm mist or a cool mist device. Antibacterial features like ultraviolet light and antimicrobial plastic, and one of my favorites, the ability to fill it from the top.

Top fill humidifiers take a huge amount of hassle out of using a humidifier.

It hasn’t been that long since humidifiers only came with basins that had to be taken off and turned upside down in order to fill.

Top fill humidifiers can be filled with a water pitcher.