How to Clean a Window AC Unit – Without Removing It

How to Clean a Window AC unit

Cleaning a window AC unit can be easy or not so easy depending on how long it’s been since you cleaned it.

And if you your AC unit is not cooling like it should or if it’s doing something stupid like spitting water at you, then you know it’s time to give it a good once over.

Some things can be easily cleaned without having to mess with taking it apart or removing it from the window.

Some other things may not be quite as simple. Like I said, it depends primarily on how long it’s been since it’s been cleaned. Unless it’s located in an area that is just predisposed to getting dust all over and inside your window AC.

Cleaning supplies

  A few items that will make the job much easier if you have them on hand is a vacuum with good suction. A handheld would be much easier to work with if you have it and a “can of air” which is usually called electronic duster. A good scrub brush is also going to be handy. For pros, an air compressor with a nozzle is going to speed things way up.

Let’s get cracking.

1.  Unplug it
No use messing around with an electronic device while it’s plugged in.
We’re just trying to clean it, not diagnosing a problem that requires power.

2. How to remove front cover of window air conditioner

The first thing to clean is the filter and to do that you’ll have to remove the front cover of the air conditioner.

There are more than one brand of window air conditioner and there are a multitude of different styles of removing the front cover also.

On most window air conditioners, you will simply have a pull tab located on the top or the side that allows you to pull the front cover down and off.

But there are other window ACs like the GE for example that have a filter that just pulls out from the side and do not provide easy access to the grill.

On window AC that doesn’t have easy access, it will require you to take a couple of screws out and pull the entire plastic casing off of the front.

If you have a manual window AC with knobs to dial in the temperature, you’ll have to take the knobs off first to be able to get the plastic casing off.

Cleaning the filter is a very simple process that usually can be done with the vacuum cleaner or a brush. You can even wash it under the faucet in the sink. Only be careful to let it dry completely so you don’t have any chance of mold growing in the AC by putting a wet filter back into it.

2.  Clean the grime off of the grill and fins.

How to clean air conditioner fins

Once you have the cover off and the grill is exposed, take a soft brush and brush any grime and dirt off of the fins.
A soft brush because you do not want to bend the fins.

  If the finns are already bent, you can purchase what’s called a fin comb that will straighten them back out.

This step can easily be done with a vacuum cleaner or a can of compressed air. If you have a portable compressor, you will be able to blow any grime and debris on the fins off that much easier.

3.  Clean the cover

Before you put the cover back on, use the opportunity to clean the dust and debris out of all the nooks and crannies located on the cover. Believe it or not, even if it doesn’t look like it, dust can keep your air conditioner from blowing at the rate it is meant to. (This is a big deal with fans too. You would probably be surprised how well your tower fan would blow by just doing some simple brushing maintenance on it.)

4.  Clean the rear of the AC.

Can you hose down a window air conditioner?

If the AC is still in your window, you can actually hose down the back side of the window AC with a hose. The only caveat is that you do not use a high pressure attachment that could bend the fins or damage any component inside of the AC.

After all this part of the AC is meant to be in the elements and can take a beating from a rainstorm or snow. Hosing it down is an easy way of getting dirt and debris off of the outside of the air conditioner.

Make sure you keep the water on the outside of the unit and not spray in such a way that it goes inside the house.

If you are not in an area where you can clean your window conditioner with a hose, a vacuum cleaner will do just fine, and or an air compressor will do even that much better.

And remember if your air conditioner is not that dirty, a can of electronic duster that you use on a computer keyboard will do the trick just fine. It’s a lot easier using a can of electronic duster than it is to drag out a water hose for a vacuum and an air compressor if you don’t have to.

5.  Clean the drain hole

If your air conditioner is spitting water at you, there is a good chance that your drain hole is clogged up.

The condensation coming off of your cooling coils when the air conditioner is running is designed to drip out of that little drain hole.

If the drain hole is stopped up then the water will just keep on rising till it starts coming out of the vents and spritzing your house.

If the drain hole is already clean and it is still spitting water at you or not draining, then you should tilt the air conditioner slightly so that the water drains out of the hole instead of building up. You may have to put a shim or something on one side of the air conditioner to keep it tilted slightly for the water to drain off.

The drain hole on a window AC is typically just a small hole around 3/8″ big located either on the side or towards the rear of the AC.

While you have the hose out, spraying out the drain hole should be pretty easy.

If you don’t have a hose, try blowing the drain hole out. If there is something really jammed in the drain hole, try taking a small pointed object like a small screwdriver and poking it through the hole being careful not to poke too hard as to puncture anything on the other side of the hole.

Never add a second drain hole to a window AC using a drill unless you have the whole AC taken apart so that you can see exactly where to drill without puncturing any part of the AC compressor. ( How do I know that? Let’s just say that I’m glad I didn’t spend more than a couple of hundred bucks on that AC.)

How to prevent mold in the window AC?

You can prevent mold in a window AC by ensuring that the drain hole is clear and that the condensation is draining off properly.
If the air conditioner is not draining and water is able to fill up inside of the window AC, then the chances of having mold inside of your AC go up considerably.
The second thing you should do to prevent mold in your window AC is to wipe it down regularly, and vacuum the dirt out.
Mold cannot grow without having the basic ingredients of moisture, food (like dirt) and dark.

Keeping your drain hole cleaned out, the AC tilted so that the water drains out easily, and wiped and vacuumed of dust, will eliminate two of the main ingredients of mold right there.

If you already have mold in your window AC, you should be prepared to take the window air conditioner out of the window and disassemble it so that you can spray the inside thoroughly with either Lysol or vinegar.

It’s not the end of the world or your air conditioner but mold sickness is a real thing and you should take it seriously.

The casing of a window air conditioner is generally held on by some very plain in view screws that can be taken out. The whole cover will come off easily after that. That will give you access to be able to spray a mold deterrent like Lysol or vinegar into any nook and cranny you can locate inside the AC.  

how to clean a window air conditioner without removing itThere’s nothing like having an air conditioner during the hot summer months.
The problem is that they tend to get dirty and need regular maintenance.

Taking the time to spruce up your AC unit is going to help eliminate mold and mildew that builds up inside the unit and stops it working properly.

It’s worth opening up your unit once a year and cleaning it out once a year, even if it’s still running smooth.
The filter should be checked once a month and cleaned whenever it looks dirty as well.

Here are the 12 steps of cleaning a window air conditioning unit.

What you Need

  • 2 soft cloths
  • A hand-held spray bottle
  • Fin comb
  • Bucket
  • Vacuum
  • Rubber gloves
  • Soft-bristle brush
  • Goggles
  • Coil cleaner – which can be found at any hardware store

The 12-Step Process

  1. Start out by disconnecting the AC unit from all power sources
    You need to unplug every single power cord being fed into the unit. If the window unit is wired directly to the home then you want to either turn off the master circuit breaker or disconnect the unit from the fuses. The manufacturer’s instructions will tell you how to discharge the capacitor. This capacitor is a device that holds the extra charge needed to kick-start the motor in your AC. Removing it is an essential step in ensuring there is no charge left in the device before cleaning it.
  1. Clean off the outside cover of the unit. Wipe it down using a wet cloth. Get rid of all the grime and dust that you can to ensure that it doesn’t fall down into the unit when the cover is opened. That just creates more work for you later. It’ll be much harder to get off then too.
  1. Now you can take the front cover off. Some of them are designed to be removed easily using just your hands. For others, you might need to remove some plastic screws or hooks. Place down these screws or clamps in a safe place while working. That way you can avoid losing them. Be warned that some units will also have metal grills that need to be removed. Their edges can be sharp, so take care when removing them!
    HOW TO CLEAN A WINDOW AC UNIT
  1. You need to clean the reusable filter in your unit, assuming that it has one. Take the filter out of the AC unit and put it in a bucket filled halfway with warm and soapy water. If you don’t have one to hand then your sink or bathtub would do fine. Get rid of dirt and other buildup by swishing the filter around. If it’s really dirty then you might need to use a soft brush to clear it all off. Put the filter off to the side so that it can dry out before you put it back into the unit. Having a wet filter in the unit just attracts more mold and dirt, which is not what you want when you’re trying to keep it clean!
  1. Make sure that you change the disposable filter in your unit regularly. Once again, that is assuming that it has one. The US Department of Energy recommend changing filters once a month during the warm season.
  1. Vacuum out the inside of the unit. A vacuum extension can help you reach the bottom of the unit, as well as the sides of the unit, the back of the front cover, and – if you have one – the metal grill. A moist rag can help here if there’s too much dirt for a vacuum to handle by itself.
  1. Put the unit back together. Be sure to let the unit dry out completely before you put it back together. Plug the window unit back into the power source and switch it on. Clean off any debris that might blow up after it has been powered on again.
  1. Be sure to keep your unit stored in a cool, dry place when the time comes to put it away. Cover it up with a sheet of plastic and leave it in a dry place as this will prevent the spread of mildew and mold.
  1. If you want to take your cleaning to the next level, there are some extra steps you can take before putting the unit back together.
    These are optional steps and should be performed delicately.
    These steps are for cleaning the fan blades and coils, which are very delicate and are easy to bend and break by accident. The motor housing can also be very sensitive and should be avoided at all times when cleaning an AC unit.
  1. Now it’s time to clean coils in your AC. Make sure you use rubber gloves and protective goggle for this. Add the coil cleaning solution to the water bottle and spray the coils lightly. Take care to spray only the coils. Leave them for around 15 minutes before pouring some warm water onto the coils. Ensure that the coil cleaner has been completely removed from the coil. Be careful to avoid getting electrical parts near the coils wet. Consider putting a dry rag down on the electrical parts to prevent water damage.
  1. Clean the fan blades of the unit using a soft, clean cloth to remove dirt from the fan blades. Be sure to wipe gently so as to avoid bending and damaging the blades. AC units can be pretty loud as they are, and bent blades only makes them louder!
  1. Finally, you can use the fin comb to repair dents in the fins of the coils. Now you can put the AC unit back together and go back to enjoying cool air whenever you need it.

AC making noise? 13 Noisy AC Problems Explained

Is your AC making noise?

Or does it make a loud noise when starting up or shutting down?

Most of the time it’s pretty easy to tell when the air conditioner is making a noise that you are not familiar with. Most of the time.
The air conditioner turning on and air compressor buzzing, pretty much just fade into the background.

So when you hear your AC making unfamiliar noise, it can be disconcerting and that’s the time to act. A little sound or a little problem can turn into a big problem fast when neglected.

Here is a short list of different noises your AC can make.

1.  AC making rattling noise

When your AC is making a rattling noise outside, the easiest thing to do is inspect the outside of the unit. It could be as simple as one of the side panels has loosened and it’s rattling back and forth while the AC is running.

Debris like Sticks on the outside of the unit can get stuck and rattle when the compressor is on also. Be sure to clean the outside of the machine well.

However, if the rattling is coming from inside of the AC unit and sounds more like a mechanical issue, it could be the fan blower motor.

2. AC making whistling noise

A whistling noise coming from your AC is more than likely a blockage somewhere that is causing air to be forced through.

Things you can check:

  • Clogged or dirty filters
  • Something blocking or covering up a vent
  • Register vents that have been closed

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3. AC making clicking noise

A clicking sound in the air conditioner is likely pointing you to something obstructing the fan blade or a fan blade that has gotten bent and is out of balance.
Clicking or crackling can also indicate a door or side panel that is not tightened down fully and is knocking back and forth.

If your AC is making a clicking or crackling noise and it’s not easily identifiable by inspecting the outside of the unit, just like any suspicious sound
In your air conditioner, it’s worth having it inspected.

4. AC making humming noise

A humming noise coming from the AC is usually very common. The sound from the compressor running is usually described as a humming noise.

But a motor that is seized can also make a loud humming noise. If your air conditioner is not coming on and you hear a loud humming noise, then your compressor has a serious issue and you need to call a tech right away.

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5. AC making gurgling noise

A gurgling noise coming from your air conditioner is going to be related to liquid somehow.

  1. Condensate pump
    A condensate pump is used to pump the water in the drain pan outside.If the condensate pump is leaking, it can make a gurgling sound.
  2. Clogged drain pipe
    A gurgling sound can come from an obstructed drain pipe. If you have a clogged drain pipe or a leaky condensate pump, the next progression is water leaking inside. It needs to be fixed right away.
  3. Refrigerant levels.
    If the refrigerant lines have air in them, the sound could be described as a gurgling noise. Though common, it is not natural and should be inspected.

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6. AC making hissing noise

A hissing noise coming from the AC means there is a leak somewhere.
Just like a tire that has a nail in it, and hisses as the air is escaping through that small hole,
When the AC is hissing, there is either air or refrigerant gas escaping somewhere.

As you can guess, this is an issue you want to have inspected as quickly as you can.
Not only will you have diminished results with your air conditioner until you do, you do not want to risk anything being wrong with your compressor. A very expensive fix.

7. AC unit making beeping noise

A beeping noise coming from your AC is typically an alert letting you know that it is either time to replace something or switch to a different setting.
Some alerts include:

  • Scheduled Filter replacement
  • Excess condensation
  • Low thermostat batteries

8. Air conditioner making pulsating noise

An air conditioner making a pulsating noise is usually just the ebb and flow of the compressor cycling. If the pulsating sound is a constant, it could be that the compressor is poorly insulated which makes it easier to hear.

If the AC is making a pulsating noise that is not typical, it could possibly mean something has come loose and is vibrating extra loud.

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9. Air conditioner surging sound

An air conditioner making a surging or pulsating sound is generally the amplified sound of the compressor cycling on and off.
If one of the components of your AC unit is against the frame of the house, the sound of the compressor could throughout the house. Even the compressor that is not insulated could be amplified by the vent system.

10. AC vibration noise

A Vibrating noise in the AC could indicate a lack of airflow caused by the extra force it takes to pull the air through the system.
You could also mean that something like a side panel has worked itself loose and is making a vibrating noise.
Cleaning the filters and giving the AC a good overall cleaning will typically remove these small vibrating noises.
But if the vibration is new and very noticeable, it could indicate something worse.
Having a Tech inspect your unit is a worthwhile investment to keep your AC running well.

11. AC unit buzzing every few minutes

An AC unit that buzzes off and on every few minutes is an indicator that you have a problem.

  1. Balance
    An easy place to start is to check out AC housing itself and make sure that it is not out of balance.
  2. Frozen over
    Another easy reason is that the AC is frozen over. Which generally means a clogged air filter.
  3. Screw loose
    A buzzing sound every few minutes in your AC could also mean that something has worked itself loose and is vibrating every few minutes.
  4. Compressor
    Worst case scenario, there is something malfunctioning inside of your compressor. The compressor is easily the most expensive part to replace on your AC so having it inspected as soon as possible is suggested.

12. Air conditioner squealing noise

When the air conditioner has a squealing noise the most likely culprit is a fan belt. The belt that connects the fan blower to the motor may have gotten out of line or maybe ready to break.
The squealing or squeaking noise coming from a fan belt is an indicator do you have it checked or changed.
You can still run the AC with the squealing noise, but when the belt breaks, there won’t be any cool air till you get it fixed.

13. AC making loud noise inside the unit.

If your AC is making a loud noise inside the unit, it is more than probable that something has broken or come completely loose.
Even if your AC is only making a loud noise when it is starting, something has gotten out of balance or broken.
It’s impossible to tell what has broken till you get inside and inspect it.
Nevertheless, you should have it looked at immediately.


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Should a Window Air Conditioner Be Tilted? 11- AC Queries

Should a Window Air Conditioner be Tilted?


Not all window air conditioners are designed to be tilted backwards to drain the condensation from them. On many newer units you will find the drain hole located to the left side centered rather than positioned to drip out the rear. 

The best policy is to check the user manual to find out for sure if you have a window air conditioner that requires tilting or not.

If your window AC requires tilting per the manual it should be tilted slightly backwards 3 to 5° to provide a runoff for the condensation that is created while the AC is running. 

If the window AC is not tilted, the water will eventually puddle up and fling back into the room.

Worse, if the unit is tilted the wrong way, the water created by the condensation will flow back into your room and potentially ruin your window sill, drywall, wallpaper, and floor or carpet.

You can keep any damage that water from your window AC could cause at Bay by simply tilting your air conditioner slightly backwards so that the water runs through the drain hole outside of the house.

Window AC Not Dripping Water

If you have a window AC not dripping water, the problem is most likely a clogged drain hole.

Since the outside of the air conditioner is exposed to the elements, it is not a surprise that debris can get into the casing of your window air conditioner and clog your drain hole up.

Sediment forming from the minerals in the condensation can also build up to the point that you eventually have a stopped up drain hole.

1You should be able to access the drainage hole from the bottom of the window AC and use a screwdriver to press into the hole and clear it out as a temporary fix.

I say temporary because you are more than likely not be able to clean it out too well from the bottom.

2.Window AC units are meant to be able to withstand rain so with that in mind, using the power washer on your garden hose to spray out the inside of the AC from the rear is also a method you can use to clean out the debris from the inside of the air conditioner.

3.If neither one of those fixes work, then you’ll probably need to resign yourself to pulling the window AC out of the window and taking it apart so that you can access the area that is clogged up from the inside.

Will Rain Damage a Window Air Conditioner?


Window air conditioners are built to withstand the elements, including rain. A typical rainstorm will not damage a window AC. 
But of the air conditioner is exposed to a hurricane type rain situation where the rain is blowing sideways, then the electronics of the window AC will have more of a chance of getting wet.

If that’s the case, then the best policy is to let it thoroughly dry before turning it on.

Normal rainfall should not have an effect whatsoever on your window AC unit.

Do Window AC’s Have Filters?


A window AC has a washable filter located directly on the face of the inside portion of the air conditioner.

It can be easily accessed usually by pulling open front panel. In some window air conditioners, the filter is inserted into a slot. Pull tabs are usually put into place to be able to pull out the filter easily in order to clean it.

Window Air Conditioner Not Blowing Hard


When your window air conditioner is not blowing hard, the first place to look for a solution is the filter. If the filter gets too dirty, you will have limited air flow.

Limited air flow will also lead to the coils freezing over, decreasing your airflow even further.

Make sure that any grills on either the sides or the rear is completely free and not up against something or else have something draped over them like clothing for instance.

Check the rear grill to make sure that it is not covered in gunk. If so, wash it with some hot water and soap.W

Can a Window Air Conditioner Cool an Entire House?

Window Air conditioners are not made to cool off an entire house. A large 10,000 BTU window AC is good about 350 to 400 square feet. Which is only about half of a very small house.
Running 2 to 3 smaller AC window units will provide better coverage than trying to get the same coverage out of one big large BTU AC.

Do Window Air Conditioners Pull Air From Outside?

Window air conditioners work by pulling room air through the front grill that is located behind the vent.

But many window AC’s have a damper lever that when opened allows a small amount of outside air to come in to a room through the air conditioner as a means of letting in some fresh air.

The ideal is that sometimes since the window is being taken up by the air conditioner that there is no way to let any fresh air inside. That’s why that vent exist at all.

But the conditioned cold air coming from the window AC there’s not originate outdoors. It is the room air being circulated through the air conditioner.

Do Window Air Conditioners Need Freon?

Window air conditioners come pre-loaded with refrigerant for freon and or a closed system. The freon or refrigerant in a window AC that has never experienced any damage should never run out.

Adding refrigerant or freon to a window air conditioner is not a normal part of maintenance and if it does deplete, then you know you have a leak.

Can Window Air Conditioners Be Recharged?

If you find that your window air conditioner has completely leaked the refrigerant out and is no longer getting cool whatsoever than it is possible to buy a kit to refill the refrigerant.

But the probability of the refrigerant leaking back out is pretty high since the AC unit is meant to be a closed system that does not require refilling at any time.

In other words, the only reason you would need to add refrigerant to your window AC is if you have a leak caused probably by some sort of damageW

Does a Window Air Conditioner Dehumidify?

 

 

Window air conditioners like all refrigerated air conditioners dehumidify as they cool the temperature. And many come with a dry mode that allows you to use your window AC as a dehumidifier without having to use the AC function.

The reason is, refrigerated air conditioners pull warm air across cooling coils that cause the moisture to separate from the air. The moisture called condensation is then routed outside through a drainage hole.

Can Window Air Conditioners Cause Carbon Monoxide Poisoning?

No. Window air conditioners cannot cause carbon monoxide poisoning because Carbon monoxide is an invisible gas found in fumes. that are produced by burning fuel.

Window air conditioners do not burn any fuel whatsoever and cannot cause carbon monoxide poisoning for that reason.

Thermostat flashing “Cool On”-Honeywell Troubleshooting

1. Honeywell Thermostat flashing cool on

The “Cool on”  message on a Honeywell thermostat is also known as “delay mode”. It often flashes in the form of a blinking snowflake  or as the word “wait’ as well.

It’s a courtesy message to let you know that the AC will delay in coming on for approximately 5 minutes in order to protect your unit from short cycling which can cause damage.

Honeywell thermostat says waiting for equipment

The waiting for equipment message on a Honeywell thermostat is to let you know that there will be a short delay before the AC powers on to prevent short cycling.

Honeywell thermostat says temporary

Whenever your Honeywell thermostat says temporary or temporary hold, it means that the temperature has been temporarily adjusted until the next scheduled change.

The “permanent hold” message indicates that the temperature is set at its permanent scheduled setting.

Honeywell thermostat says recovery

Recovery is a thermostat mode that indicates your air conditioner has turned back on after it has shut down because of a scheduled “off” period. The recovery mode message is nothing to worry about, it is simply a courtesy to let you know your AC has restarted in order to begin reaching the next scheduled temperature.

Honeywell thermostat says aux heat on

The Aux heat message on a Honeywell thermostat is to let you know that auxiliary heat has turned on in addition to your compressor as a supplement to get your temperature up.

It is a feature put in place to help your heat maintain temperature when the outdoor temperature is extra cold.

honeywell thermostat not turning onHoneywell thermostat “Return” blinking

The word “Return” flashing on a Honeywell thermostat simply means that the thermostat is returning to the preset schedule that it has been programmed for.

Honeywell thermostat says low battery with new batteries

According to Honeywell, if you are still getting a low battery message or the word Lol appears on screen even after you have replaced the batteries,
Then take the batteries out and replace them in the opposite , completely backwards position.
Leave the batteries in the thermostat backwards for about 30 seconds.
Take them back out and put them in the right way.

The message should be gone.

If that doesn’t work, there’s responsibility that the batteries are not good. Retry with new batteries.

Honeywell thermostat says ” leave”

Leave is the message on the Honeywell thermostat is the setting that you put your thermostat on when you are going to be away.
In other words, you’re going to be leaving for a while so you leave your thermostat on a lower or higher number based on the season so that it is not running at full capacity the entire time you’re gone.
Or it could be that it’s just sick of your face.

Honeywell thermostat blinking heat on

Heat on is the message on a Honeywell thermostat that is letting you know that there will be about a 5-minute delay before the heat comes on after the thermostat has been set.

The reason for this is to protect the equipment from short cycling and doing damage to the compressor.

This is the same message that appears when the AC comes on, except when the AC comes on the message will read “Cool on” or show a symbol of a snowflake.

Either way, there is nothing to worry about. It is simply a courtesy to let you know that there is a small delay between setting your thermostat and it coming on.

Honeywell thermostat is blank with no display

If your Honeywell thermostat is blank, the most likely issue is that the batteries have died. If you’re thermostat does not have batteries, then you have probably thrown a breaker.
Simple fix. Check the breaker first. If it is not tripped, then switch out the batteries.

Thermostat flashing _Cool On_ - HoneywellHoneywell thermostat reading wrong temperature.

The temperature sensor on a Honeywell thermostat is the most likely culprit win the thermostat is reading the wrong temperature.

Dust inside of the thermostat can accumulate on the sensor and cause it to gauge the temperature accurately. Popping the thermostat open and blowing out the dust with a can of keyboard air may solve the problem.

Another issue that can cause a Honeywell thermostat to read the wrong temperature is that it is not level.
Check to see if the thermostat has been knocked out of place and is sitting crooked.
If it is, simply level it back out and the thermostat should be reading the right temperature again.

3.  Another scenario that can cause your Honeywell thermostat to read the wrong temperature is its placement inside of your home. If it is not centered correctly inside of the area then it will not read the whole room accurately and could be affected by hot or cold spots in the room.

Honeywell thermostat not turning on

A Honeywell thermostat not turning on is usually a case of not getting power. If the batteries are completely dead, the thermostat will not turn on.
Also if the breaker is tripped, the thermostat will not be able to get power either.
A blank display, buttons not working, thermostat just not coming on, are all indicators that you need to check the battery or check and see if the breaker is tripped.

If the display is on but the thermostat is still not adjusting the temperature, then more than likely you have a dirty or malfunctioning sensor. Taking the thermostat apart and blowing out the dust can clear the sensor off and get the thermostat to working again. Or else replacing the thermostat is a little easier job than disassembling one.

Can You Leave a Window Air Conditioner on 24/7?

It’s that time again. The heat and the humidity have shown their ugly face once more.
You hate to do it, but it’s almost too  unbearable to go without the AC. But how much is too much?
 Does a window air conditioner have a limit for the amount of summertime abuse it can take?

How long can you leave a window air conditioner running? 24/7?

Technically you can leave a window air conditioner running all day and all night if you want and it will not hurt the AC or cause it to overheat in any way.
 But you may want to remember that a large Window AC can use up to 1400 watts. Which will cause a substantial rise on your energy bill.
 Window air conditioners cool extremely fast so if your bot going to be in a room for awhile, the best money is on switching it off when your out.

How long do window air conditioners last?

There is no reason that a window air conditioner will not last you 10 to 15 years as long as it is maintained properly. Even running it 24/7 all Summer long.

But even though it will not do any damage to the window AC itself, running a window AC 24/7 will reflect substantially on your energy bill.

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How many watts does the window AC use?

You can expect a 10,000 BTU window AC to use 830 watts. Which translates to about $120 a day if you were to run it for 12 hours a day in Texas. And Texas is by no means the most expensive state. 
That’s a pretty shocking estimate. Even a window air conditioner that consumes 450 Watts would run you around \$65 for a 12 hour day. Still pretty shocking.

How long do window air conditioners lastMost window air conditioners are made to cool down a room very quickly so unless the room that it is being used in is occupied 24/7, there is really no need to keep a window AC unit running non stop.

Granted, there are times that you want the AC running for a little while before you get home from work or school or if it’s too hot to sleep and you want to keep the AC on till you get to sleep. But you don’t need it on all night

Welcome to the modern world.

Window air conditioners now come Wi-Fi enabled.

Smart window ACs come with their own app that you can use to schedule when your AC is on, or turn the AC on or off from a remote location. You can also change the settings to increase or decrease the temperature.

This is a big advantage when you are shopping for a new window AC.

What are the benefits of Wi-Fi smart window air conditioners?

1.  Energy savings

The ability to schedule your AC to run only according to your daily schedule means using your AC less and having more control over the amount of energy that is used. The smart app will also give you a detailed read of your usage to allow you to schedule even smarter.

2.  Convenience

Smart window air conditioners control the temperature and only give or take as much as you need by monitoring and controlling the unit according to your indoor climate.

The app gives you complete voice command to switch your AC modes with ease also.

3.  Maintenance and Notifications

Through the use of the smart app, you can keep track of every part of your air conditioner. This includes being notified when it’s time to change your filter or if any individual component goes out. It will also let you know if your AC is not draining properly.

Smart thermostats have been a thing  for quite a while now and offer the luxury of being able to schedule your heat and air so that you use less energy.

Now you can get the same control with a window air conditioner.

Yeah sounds great. But I’m not really in the market for a new window AC. The one I got works perfectly fine. After all, these things last for 10 plus years if you treat them right, right?

If you already have a window AC that you’re perfectly content with and it’s not in the market for a new one, yet you would love to have the smart features that you can find on the newest window air conditioners,

The easy solution is a smart plug.

The truth is if you have a hub like Alexa, you can turn any device that you plug in to an outlet into a smart device with scheduling capabilities and remote operation.

Though there are obviously some features you’re not going to get with a smart plug over a fully integrated Wi-Fi smart window AC,

The capacity to schedule the plug so that it only comes on during the times that you have indicated is a big part of the equation that will take you a long way even if it doesn’t give you regular updates an alert you when you need to clean your filter.

Smart Plug-Gosund WiFi Outlet Mini Socket

  • Voice Control — Smart plug works with Alexa and Google Home but No Hub Required. 

How many watts does the window AC useSummary

Even though running a window air conditioner all day and all night will not hurt the air conditioner or cause it the overheat, it will have a big impact on your energy bill.

Window air conditioners use a lot of Watts. Which will add up to a hefty Energy bill if not kept in check.

That’s why even though it’s fine to run a window AC 24/7, it is not suggested.

Scheduling your AC to run only when you need it is the best way to keep your energy bill in check.

But it is not the easiest thing to do, since there are times when you want the AC to run but you do not have access to be able to turn it on.

The newest kid on the block, the Wi-Fi smart window air conditioner has all the answers when it comes to being able to schedule your AC to come on and turn off when you want it to and also the ability to turn on and off by the use of built-in sensors.

A smart app gives you the ability to schedule your window AC, monitor the temperature, control it remotely, and even notifies you when you need to clean out the filter.

But if you are not in the market for a new window AC but you still want the capabilities of scheduling it, smart plugs can give you access and the ability to control when anything that is plugged into them is on or off.

A smart plug maybe the cheap way out, but sometimes expensive is just expensive.

Evaporative Cooler – Benefits and Drawbacks of Water Cooling

Evaporative coolers go by several different names.

They are also called air coolers, swamp coolers, desert coolers, personal coolers, and ventless air conditioners.

What is an Evaporative Air Cooler?

An  evaporative cooler is a type of air conditioner that uses water to absorb heat and a fan to blow the water cooled air into a room. It does not generate any heat that needs to be exhausted like that on a standard AC unit.

What is Evaporative Cooling?

Evaporative cooling is a method of cooling down the air in a room by blowing air with a fan through a water soaked pad.

  The air is made cooler because of the capacity of the water to absorb the heat and bring down the temperature of the air.

Evaporative cooling is basically a simulation of air blowing over a body of water similar to the natural process of air cooling off as it blows over a lake or an ocean. Only done mechanically in your home.

  There are more components to an evaporative cooler obviously, but that is the basic premise.

How does an Evaporative Cooler work?

An evaporative cooler works through a simple relationship between a fan motor, a pump, and a rigid pad media too soak with water.

Through a 3 -step process, an evaporative cooler works by:

  1. Pumping water through the use of a water pump onto a rigid pad media to soak the pads through with water.
  2. Blowing a fan through the water soaked pad media into a room
  3. Air is pulled through the room by opening a window on the opposite side of the house or room.

The combination of a fan moving air through a water soaked pad reduces the temperature of the air around 20%

Who can Benefit from an Evaporative Cooler?

1.Rooms with No Windows

Anyone who needs an air conditioner but does not have a way to exhaust the heat generated by the standard window AC or portable AC through a window.

Personal or portable evaporative coolers can be an excellent alternative to window air conditioners or portable air conditioners because they do not need a way to exhaust the heat from them.

Conventional Air conditioners use a refrigeration method that absorbs heat and expels it either through the rear of the air conditioner or with a hose that has to be ducted out of a window.

Portable evaporative coolers do not require any type of heat exhaust, which means they do not have to be near a window. Which makes them actually portable compared to a portable AC that needs a window to exhaust the heat from.

2. Garages

Garages in most cases or not outfitted with the ductwork necessary for the HVAC (central heat and air) to cool off the garage.
A portable evaporative swamp cooler is a great choice to cool down a garage. Not only can you put it anywhere you want in the garage, there is usually outdoor access to a faucet nearby.

3.Apartments

If you’re living in an apartment that doesn’t have adequate cooling throughout the whole apartment or one that does not allow you to use a window for a air conditioner,

A portable air cooler can be used as a way to cool down the apartment or as a supplement in the areas of the apartment that do not get cool.

4.Office Spaces

Mini air coolers have become very popular as a desktop solution to keep your personal space cool while you work at your desk.

5. Environmentally Conscious Persons

Unlike refrigerated ACS that can emit dangerous chemicals into the air because of the refrigerant that is used to absorb the heat,

Air coolers do not require anything besides a water hookup and a fan motor. There is nothing potentially dangerous or any chemicals that can be released from an air cooler.

6. Energy Saving

Unlike refrigerated air conditioning that can account for up to 5% tire Energy bill, swamp coolers require very little energy and you can expect your bill to be in the range of running a fan.

Evaporative Air Cooler
Disadvantages of an Air Cooler

1.  Limited Cooling

Evaporative coolers are limited and how much and how accurate they can cool a room.
The settings on a swamp cooler are limited to high, med, and low to control the fan speed and a switch to turn the water pump on.

There isn’t a thermostat to dial in a set temperature that you want the room to cool off to.

2. Do Not Work Well in Humid Climates.

Air coolers require dry air in order to get the best use out of them. Once the humidity reaches above 20 percent outside, it is just as effective to run a fan alone than to use a swamp cooler.

At that point, using a swamp cooler is only adding humidity upon humidity which will make the room feel sticky and “swampy”. Thus the name “swamp cooler”.

Unfortunately there are regions that are humid all year long and can’t really benefit from an evaporative cooler at all.

3. Don’t Cool Enough.

There was a time when swamp coolers ruled the world. People were used to warmer temperatures consistently. But now since Central heating and Air has come to the forefront, people are used to cooler temperatures coming from their air conditioner. And for a lot of people, evaporative cooling is just not cool enough anymore.

4.  Maintenance

Though not as much of an issue with large desert coolers that are designed to have the water ran directly to the machine,

When it comes to portable air coolers, they have to be filled with water in order to operate. That typically means carrying a bucket of water to the machine or running a garden hose from a faucet to the machine.

Water pad media must be kept fresh also in order to hold water.

5.  Bacteria

Evaporative coolers have the potential of standing water built into the design.

Since air coolers require water as part of the cooling process, they must be emptied anytime they are not in use to avoid the growth of bacteria.

Legionnaires disease is a deadly disease that has been traced back to bacteria growing in standing water primarily in commercial swamp coolers that had not been maintenance.

Standing water is also a nesting place for mosquitoes.

5.  Water Consumption

Though a great deal was made out of savings of you electricity by using a evaporative cooler of a refrigerated unit, little is mentioned about the amount of water that is used in an evaporative cooler.

For a portable air cooler, the amount of water used does is work mentioning. But for outdoor desert coolers, you will basically be using the same amount of water as you would to water the yard everyday.

6.  Noisy

Noise is always going to be an issue with evaporative cooling. The combination of a fan and a water pump create double the noise of just a fan. The water has its own sound compared to slurping or washing. Noisy nonetheless.

Summary

There was a time when evaporative cooling was the main form of air conditioning. It was much more common for someone to have a swamp cooler hanging out their window than to have the luxury of refrigerated central heat and air.

Though there are still certain areas that rely heavily on evaporative coolers, refrigerated air has become much more prevalent.

But does that mean that there is no place for evaporative cooling?

Not at all. There are many circumstances were air coolers make more sense than refrigerated coolers.

For instance there are many people who need a way to cool down a room or area who do not have access to any type of window to exhaust the heat of a standard refrigerated air unit.

This makes evaporative coolers a much more convenient way of cooling off multiple tops of rooms including garages, shops, apartments, etc.

The fact that air coolers are much cheaper to run and do not have any negative effect on the environment by the emissions of any type of chemicals is also a big plus and a central reason why some people choose evaporative cooling over refrigerated air.

But there are a drawbacks to air coolers too.

For one you can’t use an air cooler when the humidity is too high. But not only leaves out a huge amount of people who live in regions that are extra humid, it also excludes getting a very good result out of a evaporative cooler in the hot humid months of Summer when you need an AC the most.

Another drawback evaporative coolers have is the potential of standing water. Anytime and air cooler is not in use, it requires emptying the water so that there is no risk of developing mold and bacteria in the machine.

Legionnaires disease is a serious condition that can be traced back to origin, coming from commercial rooftop air coolers there were never maintenance and water allowed to stand and facilitate bacteria.

Stagnant water also invites mosquitoes to lay eggs in the water and become another issue that is absolutely not welcomed especially when you’re already dealing with humidity. 

Can I Run My Swamp Cooler All Day?(Evaporative AC Hacks)

Living in the Southwest my entire life, one of the most common sites in the neighborhood was the big blocky swamp coolers hanging off the side of nearly every house on the block.

Of course this was more like 25 years ago and these days, swamp coolers are a lot less popular, which in a lot of regards is a much better.

But the good ol evaporative swamp cooler has a lot of advantages if you know how to get the best out of one.

Can I run my swamp cooler all day?

One of the best ways to get a swamp cooler to cool the house is to turn it on in the morning when the air is cool and let it run the entire day.

Provided you have the proper hookups in place to be able to run the water all day to keep the pads wet.

The reason I make that distinction is that evaporative coolers have become popular as standalone portable units and some are quite small.

If you have the type that you have to fill with a bucket, then running it all day may be too difficult to keep up with.

But regardless, if you can, starting a swamp cooler in the morning will cool the air nicely and give you a much better head start to keeping the house cool during the afternoon heat.

Hessaire MC18M Portable Evaporative Cooler – Gray, 1300 CFM, Cools 500 Square Feet

How to make a swamp cooler colder?

One of the easiest ways to make a swamp cooler feel colder is to take a garden hose and spray down the pads real well. Or if it’s an indoor evaporative cooler, saturate the pads using a bucket of water.
This will add an extra bit of kick to the swamp cooler when the sun gets high.

This is a technique I remember real well doing as a kid. It seems like I was constantly being told to go outside and spray down the air conditioner when the afternoon heat hit.

How to use an air cooler with ice?

  1.  Lift out one padded side of the swamp cooler.
  2.  Add ice or bottles of iced water into the water basin.
  3.  Put the padded side back on by inserting it at the top and bringing it in at the bottom

Putting ice in the water tank of a evaporative cooler is a method of getting a cooler temperature out of a swamp cooler.

If you have plenty of ice, then dumping a bag of ice into the water will make the air coming from your cooler much colder for a little while.

And though you can add ice directly to the water, you will probably find that it melts faster than you want to keep at it.

One one way of making the ice last longer is to freeze water bottles (full of water of course) and put those into the water instead of adding the ice directly to the water.

How many bottles do you need? According to the size of your swamp cooler, anywhere from 3 to 6 bottles of Frozen water.

The point is to cool the water off. Not to replace the water with ice. If you completely replace the water with ice, the swamp cooler will not be able to run at all.

Many a lot of the popular brands of portable ventless air coolers come with plastic ice packs that eliminates the need for a DIY method like putting bottles of Frozen water in your swamp cooler

Air cooler not cooling?

If your air cooler is not cooling, There is only a handful of things that you can check to diagnose the problem.

1.  Are the pads getting wet?

If the pump is running, but you don’t feel cool  air coming from the cooler, there’s good chance that you’re you’ve got to stoppage somewhere or a disconnection.

Take the pad walls off of the machine and make sure that all the water hoses are hooked up correctly and that there is water flowing through them well.

2. Is there proper air flow in the room?

In order to get good air flow from a swamp cooler, you need have a window or door open on the opposite side of the house. If there is not a window or door open then the air coming from the machine does not have anything to pull it through the house.

Vice versa, if you have too many doors or windows open then the air coming from the cooler will just end up getting pulled out of the house and too much outdoor air will be allowed inside.

3.  Do evaporative coolers work in high humidity?

If you’re evaporative cooler is not cooling and you’ve determined that you have proper water and air flow, you may just have a problem with the humidity being too high to tell that the air cooler is making much of a difference.

Unfortunately swamp coolers get their name because of the swampy feeling that you get when you add humidity on top of humidity.

When the humidity is already high, trying to cool off a room by adding more humidity only compounds the problem and can make you feel even hotter.

Can you use an evaporative cooler with a dehumidifier?

Using a dehumidifier to reduce the moisture in the air with an evaporative cooler seems like it would be a good idea, right?

Doesn’t it make sense that if you could reduce the humidity with a dehumidifier, then all you would be left with is cool air?

But there is a couple of problems with that theory that don’t exactly pan out.

1. Dehumidifiers exhaust heat.

Dehumidifiers expel heat from the rear similar to what you have probably experienced by walking behind a window air conditioner.
Placing of the humidifier in the room to reduce humidity but not only reduce the amount of cool humidity that you are getting from the air cooler, it would also add the additional heat that it is exhausting in the process.

2. Dehumidifiers are expensive.

If you were going to purchase a dehumidifier to work with an evaporative cooler, you might as well purchase a window air conditioner or a portable air conditioner. Both the window ac and a portable air conditioner will dehumidify as they cool and most of the time they come with dry mode which will operate as a dehumidifier separately.

What Should You Look For in a Small Window AC? (3 Favorites)

Small window air conditioners  generally cover right around 150 square feet for 5000 BTUs. 250 square feet for 6,000 BTUs.

BTUs which stands for British Thermal Units can be a confusing metric to base your AC needs off of.

Most people are unfamiliar with what BTUs actually are.

That’s okay,  so am I.

An easier way to figure out what size AC you actually need is to base it off the square footage. Which is generally labeled on the box near the same area where the BTUs are listed.

The formula for square footage is length x width.
In simpler terms, if you have a room that is 10 ft going one way and 12 ft going the other way, you multiply 10×12 to find that you have 120 square feet of space.

Using the same formula, you can find out how many BTUs you need by simply multiplying the square footage by 25.

Sq ft x 25 = BTUs.

But to be fair that is a rough estimate and doesn’t take into account variables like high ceilings, hot climates, and rooms that are directly in the Sun.

If any of those variables applies to you, then you should probably consider stepping it up to the next size.

What should you look for in a window AC?

 

1.  Sq. feet covered
Getting the right AC to match your square footage is important. Air conditioning is not like a race car engine that works better when it has more power. Two large of an air conditioner can actually make the room extra humid. Not to mention the extra energy required to run a larger air conditioner.

2.  Physical Size
It’s important to match the physical size of a window AC to the actual window it’s going in. Though with a small window air conditioner, it will not usually be the case, it is possible to get a AC unit that is just too large for your window.

3.  Watts/ energy usage
The amount of watts an AC uses will impact the amount of money you spend to run the unit every month. It’s a good idea to check the wattage to find a unit that is relatively low.

Beyond this small list, it is really just bells and whistles.

Some of the extras you can expect to find in a Window AC are:

 

1. Dehumidifier

Humidity on its own can make a room feel hot without the actual temperature being that high. A dehumidifier or dry mode as it is usually called, will reduce the humidity in the room without using the refrigerator function to cool.

2. Auto shut off

Auto shut off on a window AC is an excellent feature because it will turn the AC off once the desired temperature is reached.

3. Remote control

A remote control with your window AC is one of the best features you can look for when shopping for an AC. Can you imagine any other item that has made life easier than a remote control?

This list of small window air conditioners is comprised of units that use 5,000 and 6,000 BTUs or cover 150 to 250 sq. ft.

Della 6000 BTU

  • 15.26 x 13.45 x 19.04″
  • 6000 BTUs
  • 690 w
  • 250 square feet

The Della small window AC is a great air conditioner that covers 250 square feet handily. It comes featured with full on dehumidifier, auto shut off, 3 speeds, and the obligatory remote control.

Cons

Heavy- 53 lbs
Available in White only
690 w- Expect to use more energy

LG Energy Star Rated 6000 BTU

  • 19.56″ x19.38″ x12.38″
  • 6000 BTUs
  • 480 w
  • Covers 260 square feet

The LG 6000 BTU window air conditioner comes with everything you need. It is a very quiet AC that comes equipped with dry mode for dehumidification and a remote control.

Built-in timer allows you to set the duration that you want the air conditioner to run.

Indicators let you choose between cool, energy, fan only, and dry mode.

It also has a indicator light to let you know when it’s time to clean the filter.

Low wattage means a lower energy bill with this unit also.

Cons – oversized.

MIDEA MAW05M1BWT

Need something a little smaller? Back to the basics?

MIDEA offers a 5000 BTU window air conditioner with mechanical controls. 7 temperature settings and two fan settings.

This is a entry level low priced AC set to be released in April 2021.

  • 15.98 by 13.19×12.05 in
  • Covers 150 square feet
  • 450 w
  • 5,000 British thermal units (BTUs)
  • Washable filter
  • Easy installation- minimal modification needed

Cons

No bells and whistles.

TOSOT 10000 BTU

Need something a little bigger?

TOSOT offers a 10,000 BTU window air conditioner that covers 450 square feet

  • 21.4×22.8×15.8 in
  • 115 w
  • Covers 450 square feet
  • 10,000 BTU

The TOSOT 10000 BTU has a sleek modern look with a digital readout. It also does not have the standard grill on the front side of the AC that is typical for nearly all other window air conditioners.

Smart remote control uses sensor technology to monitor the temperature of the air and adjust the air conditioner strength.

Sleep mode- adjust the temperature throughout the night to give you the best comfort. throughout the night

Modes include fan, sleep, timer, swing, and I feel

Very low wattage for a window AC. Energy saver.

Energy STAR certified

Review stating that it is the best AC they’ve ever had.

BTU – Air Conditioning Lingo Confusion

Have you ever shopped for a window air conditioner or a portable ac and realized that there is certain language right on the outside of the box that supposedly tells you everything you need to know about the AC?

But the problem is no one seems to know what that language means?

The specific term I’m talking about is BTU.

What are Air Conditioning BTU’s?

BTU stands for British thermal unit. It is the amount of energy needed to heat or cool 1 lb. of water 1° f at sea level.

That tells me everything I need to know. Not.

The funny thing is, never in my life have I ever known what a BTU is. And I’ve never met anyone that did either.

Seems like an odd way to label an air conditioner when not too many people really seem to know what it is.

But if you’re shopping for a new AC, it’s a term you better become familiar with pretty quickly.

Room SizeSquare FootageHow Many BTUs?How Many Watts Used Per Hr
10 x 151505000 BTU1465 w
12 x 121445000 BTU1465 w
14 x 142006000 BTU1758 w
12 x151806000 BTU1758 w
20 x 204008000 BTU2344 w
18 x 2545010000 BTU2930 w
20 x 2550010000 BTU2930 w
25 x 3075015000 BTU4396 w
30 x 3090018000 BTU5275 w
30 x 35100025000 BTU Range7326 w
35 x 40140035000 BTU Range10250 w
38 x 40150037500BTU Range10990 w
40 x 45180045000 BTU Range13188 w
45 x 50225055000 BTU Range16118 w
50 x 50250062500 BTU Range18316 w

Let’s get down to the nitty gritty.

Hhow many BTUs do I need_

How many BTUs do I need? What size air conditioner do I need?

The quickest way to give you a ballpark figure of how many BTUs you need is to use a simple formula.

Square footage (length times width)  x 25

This is a rough figure based on a square room with average 8 ft ceilings and one or two windows that are not directly in the Sun.

If the area you are looking to cool off has higher ceilings, increase the amount by 10%.

Likewise if the room is the direct path of the sun, increase the amount 10% again.

Another factor to consider is the kitchen.

Are you trying to cool off the kitchen or is the kitchen in the vicinity that is adding heat into the area you’re trying to cool off?

If that’s the case then increase the amount of BTUs by 4,000 to combat the extra heat given off by the stove and other cooking equipment.

If you’re dealing with the Arizona Sun or any other high heat climate, tackle on another 10 to 12% of BTUs.

Don’t overdo it.

Bigger is not better when it comes to air conditioners

You might think that if your room requires 5000 BTU then getting an AC that has 8,000 BTU could only add more power and do a way better job.

Not so.

That might be  hard fact to accept for those of us who want bigger and better,

But putting too big of an air conditioner into too small of a square footage will cause humidity to build up in your room.

Humidity is not the result you were going for, presumably.

Humidity makes the room feel hotter than the temperature actually is.

Too large of an AC in too small of a space will not allow for the condensation in the unit to properly displace, which will cause it to evaporate and come back into the room as humidity.

A large AC and a small room will also cycle on and off much faster and use much more energy.

The same ratio can happen with an AC that is too small and a large room except for the AC will continually run without turning off and use much more energy.

how many BTU's per watt

What are BTUs in Watts?

How many watts an air conditioner is going to use is also a big variable when it comes to shopping for an AC.

1 BTU is worth .293071 watts per hour

Energy cost from running the AC is one of the biggest energy hogs you will have in your house hands down.

Energy saving is a must during the summer. Running the AC day and night will put your electric bill through the roof.
So finding some ways to keep cool rather than the AC is always a smart thing to do.

A few tips to keep cool in summer

1.  Bump your thermostat up

Most of us want the kind of cool air you get when you walk into a hotel lobby or a department store in our house.
But the reality is the comfort comes with a hefty price tag.
Simply learning to keep the thermostat a little higher and being comfortable in a little warmer space will have dramatic results on your energy bill. By just going from 72° to 75 on your thermostat, you could see a surprising change in the amount of your bill.

2.  Ceiling fans

Ceiling fans, well technically do nothing to change the actual temperature, they do pull heat away from you so that you actually feel cooler in hot weather. Ceiling fans are much less expensive to run than the air conditioner also.

3.  Shade

Shade can come in the form of plants, shutters, curtains, etc.

Shading your windows can have a great effect on the amount of heat that comes into your room.

Summing it up

Choosing an AC with the proper BTUs for the size room that you want to cool is a must.

But how many people do you know that really know what a BTU is or what they’re supposed to do with that term?

BTU stands for British thermal unit.
If you’re in the HVAC industry or deal with heating and air very much then it is a term or an acronym that you are probably very familiar with and no how to use properly,

But for the rest of us, there is an easier way to determine how many BTUs you are going to need when purchasing an AC.

An easy formula is to take the square footage of a room and multiply by 25.
W x L x 25
And since we all know that rooms come in all different kinds of sizes, we simply add in 10% if the ceilings are higher or if it’s a particularly warm room that sits in the Sun.

It’s also important to know that when it comes to purchasing an AC, more BTUs does not equate to a cooler room.

Two large of an AC will cycle on and off too quickly and will not displace the condensation quickly enough which will cause your room to be extra humid.

An AC should help reduce humidity, definitely not add to it.

You should also be aware that the more BTUs and air conditioner has, the more watts it’s going to consume, and the higher the energy bill is going to be to run the unit.

My Portable AC Keeps (5 Pain in the A** Issues)

Does your portable air conditioner have a few issues that keep coming up regardless of how many times you think you have the problem resolved?

A portable air conditioner can be a very useful way to keep cool when you want the ability to move the AC from room to room.

But it is no secret that portable does not exactly mean convenient when you’re talking about an AC.

And the number of issues that can keep coming up with a portable air conditioner may make it seem like it’s not worth it in the first place.

LG 10,000 BTU -Smart Portable Air Conditioner

Here is a list of some of the most popular issues that pop up with portable air conditioners.

1. Portable AC Keeps Turning Off

A portable air conditioner that keeps turning off is most likely getting too hot.
There are a few different reasons this could be happening.

a. Kink in the exhaust hose. If the exhaust hose is not positioned so that the heat expelling from the AC is not able to exhaust easily, heat will build up around the compressor eventually causing it to shut off.

Solution: Make sure the hose is not wound up or is kinked. Also, be sure that the hose is not being obstructed where the air exits.

b. Automatic shut-off is enabled. Make sure you don’t have the timer set to cut off the AC before you’re ready.

c. The temperature programmed into the thermostat has been reached.

d. Vent grates are clogged or obstructed.

The vents on the side of the AC are there to provide ventilation to the compressor and evaporative coil department inside the machine. If these get covered or clogged, the unit can overheat.

2. Portable Air Conditioner keeps filling up with water

All refrigerated air conditioners create condensation as the air is pulled across the cooling coils. That’s why there is a drain pan in the first place for the portable air conditioner.

If the pan keeps filling up with water, there are only a few things it could possibly be:

a. The air is extra humid. Humidity comes and goes and sometimes the humidity and the ambient air is extra high which means that you’re your portable AC is going to create that much more constant as it pulls the humidity out of the air.

b. Dry mode. Make sure that your unit is not in dry mode. Dry mode is specifically the dehumidification mode that extra humidity from the air. Sometimes the simplest answer is right in front of you. Maybe the thermostat has been changed to dry mode at some point and has gone unnoticed.

3. Broken mister. Most portable ACs evaporate the condensate at a rate that it is able to expel out the window along with the exhaust heat. If you have a portable AC that at one point never filled up with water, but now fills up quickly, there is probably a broken flinger that is not doing its job. Causing all the condensate to fill up the pan instead of being flung out the window.

3. Portable AC not cooling

 

 

a. Exhaust hose has come off either partially or all the way.
The exhaust air that is pumped out the window, as you know, is very hot and humid.
If the hose somehow comes unattached even partially, and you will have a mix of hot and cold air coming from the machine which will cancel the cool air.
b. Filter needs to be changed. The filter on an AC is the first place to look for just about every AC problem. If the filter is clogged, then there is no way for air to be pulled into the unit freely enough to condition the air and re-release it.
c. Exhaust hose is kinked or covered.
If the exhaust is not allowed to freely Flow away from the AC. The buildup of heat will cause diminished cooling.
d. Ventilation grates
The ventilation grates on the side and top of your portable AC are there to help cool the evaporative coil and compressor department.
If they are covered or gunked up, you will experience diminished cooling from your unit.
e. Faulty sensor
Portable air conditioners contain a sensor that measures the temperature of the air being pulled into the air conditioner so that the thermostat has a baseline to cool off of.
If the sensor goes bad or gets dirty, it can give a wrong reading that can either prevent your AC from getting cold enough or vice versa, making it too cold so that it freezes over.
If you’re a handy person, it’s not that hard of an operation to check the sensor. Otherwise, it’s not that hard to call a handyman over to check it for you.

 

GE Appliances 12,000 BTU 3-IN-1 Portable Air Conditioner

portable air conditioner keeps turning off4.Portable AC keeps freezing

 

a. Clean or replace the filter. A dirty filter will inhibit airflow. If the air is not capable of moving past the refrigerant coils fast enough, the humidity in the air will freeze instead of drain off.

b. Thermostat setting is too low.
If the thermostat is set too low, then the condensation that is supposed to drain or evaporate from the machine will freeze.
Solution: run the AC on the fan only to thaw out the coils.

c. High humidity
When you are experiencing higher than normal moisture in the air, the moisture in the air has a better chance of freezing before it is evaporated. This is especially so if you have a dirty filter.
Solution: run the unit on dry mode
The dehumidifier function (dry mode) is made to extract humidity out of the air faster.
Also when the humidity inside of the room is too high, often you will find that running the dehumidifier only is enough to bring the comfort of the room back to a decent spot.

6. Portable air conditioner keeps blowing the breaker.

 

 

a. A breaker shuts off when it is overloaded. That is the entire function of a breaker.

If the breaker is shutting off when the portable AC is started, there’s a good chance that you have too many appliances on one circuit.
Turning the breaker back on every time it snaps will cause it to eventually get to where it won’t stay on at all.

b. Unit is too small.

If the unit is too small you may find that it is running Non-Stop causing it to trip the breaker.

c. Turn the thermostat down

Turning the thermostat down may lessen the load on your breaker and allow the machine to keep running.

If you do not have an overloaded circuit and the AC continues to trigger the breaker, then you should call an electrician.

6.Portable AC keeps tripping the power strip.

Most surge protector power strips are not rated to be able to handle the startup of an AC. It is recommended that you never plug an AC into a power strip. Power strips are meant to be temporary solutions that are unplugged and stored afterward.

The same goes for using an extension cord with a portable AC. Most extension cords are not rated to be able to handle the surge of an AC compressor starting up. If you need to use an extension cord, be sure that it is rated to be able to handle a large appliance like an AC. 

Recap
Though a portable air conditioner can be a good idea when you want the convenience of being able to move an air conditioner from room to room, it’s important to remember that convenience doesn’t exactly mean “ease of use”.

Proper use, maintenance, and upkeep are the name of the game. As long as you keep your filter cleaned, the unit properly exhausted, and keep up with the drain, making sure the department isn’t filled and that it is not neglected to the point of growing mold, your unit should last a long time.

If window access is the primary reason that you’re thinking about purchasing a portable air conditioner, there are also evaporative portable air conditioners available that don’t require a window to vent out of. Just food for thought